scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I need some help from Rusty, or any of the sub builders out there. I have 2 xl 12's. They have direct soldered leads. Good. But the cable is too short to go where I need it to go. I don't want to splice it because I don't want the splice to show since there is plexi on the back of the enclosure, and everything will be visible. My question is: Is it as easy as heating up the current 8ga/tinsel connection to melt the existing solder, then removing the 8ga, and then soldering new 8ga on? Will heat effect anything around the joint area? Can someone please help me with this. I'm ready to get it done, but I don't want to just jump in without knowing what I'm facing. I've never dealt with anything like this before, and never reconed a sub, so thus my nervousness. Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Quote Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookscustoms Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 While I am not an expert, I used a pair of hemostat clamps to act as a heat sink to prevent the solder (and heat) from wicking up the tinsel leads when I did my leads and it worked great!! Quote 2010 dodge ram cummins t1000bdcp dc audio xl12 p400.4 pioneer avh-3500bhs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 That would make sense. Thanks for the input. Quote Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarredondo1999 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 You can also do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarredondo1999 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Sorry double post Edited February 5, 2014 by jarredondo1999 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I'll have to look when I get home. Work blocks YouTube. I mean really how do they expect us to get anything done if they block all our sites!! LOL Can you describe what it is? Quote Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker8940 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I'll have to look when I get home. Work blocks YouTube. I mean really how do they expect us to get anything done if they block all our sites!! LOL Can you describe what it is? It's describing what you said you don't want to do,extending the leads. Edited February 5, 2014 by kicker8940 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 That guy has a wierd shaped head. Lol jk Id never use the yellow ones.. the copper idea seems decent tho. Quote Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarredondo1999 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) I'll have to look when I get home. Work blocks YouTube. I mean really how do they expect us to get anything done if they block all our sites!! LOL Can you describe what it is? It's a video of crimping the leads with like a copper sleeve then adding heat shrink. If you are worried about the looks of it, you can probably use red and black heat shrink or whatever color you are using for your speaker wire. Just an idea. Edited February 5, 2014 by jarredondo1999 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks for the description. I've actually been sitting here thinking about just using techflex and heat shrink. If I make the joint up close to the terminal platform, then it would have about 3 layers of shrink on it. Probably not visible. Then I don't even touch the tinsel lead. I guess that's probably the best way to go huh. Thanks guys for your help. Now I just need to find a crimp tool. Quote Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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