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Running my amp at lower impedance than it's meant for?


chrisw.

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Yeah, it's easy to take coincidences as evidence that something works out correctly. Hence why Newtonian mechanics lasted for centuries as the end all be all to motion. There could be several different vairables that made it seem like your setup was measuing Wattage correctly, but there is a slim chance it actually did. Were you playing music? A Sine wave? Once you start dealing with AC current things get substantially more complicated. Instead of a straight multiplication of Amps * Current you have an integral of A(t)*V(t) with respect to time. which unless you had to bust out your old calculus book or get your scientific calculator out as well as a way to analyze and/or model the waveform you didn't even get close to measuring wattage. You were just measuring Volt Amps. Regardless you should have got ~2x the power when you halved the impedance which you did. If it seems to be stable at 2 ohms be happy you can run it. I've done the same thing with 2 old Jensen amps and they lasted for years until I sold them, but know there are risks when you go below manufacturers ratings.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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Yeah Noel's post is a good exposé into the issues with clamping an amp. Check it out. If you still have issues I can suggest a couple of books that we used in my physics undergrad. :)

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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i don't need all the science. when i run it at 2 ohms i get windshield & body panel flex. when i run it at 4 ohms i don't. simple.

Still Living in the 90's

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i don't need all the science. when i run it at 2 ohms i get windshield & body panel flex. when i run it at 4 ohms i don't. simple.

No science needed for that. 1/2 the ohms should produce more power.

 

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You're the one who brought in the numbers and the "science" of clamping an amp. My issue was no one had really gone into detail why your test was wrong, and you apparently weren't going to budge on your position that you were right beyond the shadow of a doubt. I just posted to try to show you why people were doubtful of your claim. Take it or leave it. Quit getting your panties in a wad when people try to point out how and why you could be wrong with your clamp test, and just run the amp at 2 ohms which will ~2x your power and be happy.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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i don't need all the science. when i run it at 2 ohms i get windshield & body panel flex. when i run it at 4 ohms i don't. simple.

Flex is bad...LMAO. You want flex, noobie

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