Slobalt7 Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 wanna talk about wasted space... heres my epic waste So badass... I love it. Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 I just tune to what you want. I know what has been said in this thread about tuning ot FS...but I can tell you that in my personal experience I was much happier tuning to what I wanted then the actual FS of the sub. Agreed! However, the impression i get is that the optimum performance is around FS, however as a lot of T/S parameters published by manufacturers seem to be slightly off, I try and aim for around 5Hz more than the quoted FS. However, we're not exactly limited for choice, and so one could first determine the required depth and then choose a sub accordingly, instead of just saying: Rockford or Kicker? Does anyone have any information on a tapered line? I've got a 12" W7AE That is just too deep to fit a standard t-line, so I need to taper it down. I'm not finding much info that isn't way over my head though... I use/have found the 2:1 ratio as outline in the; Transmission Line Design - Fundamentals (link below) to be a good formula. http://surfandsound.wordpress.com/2013/05/06/transmission-line-design-fundamentals-including-diagrams/ Next step is to add flared ports for wider FS bands MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tribe523 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 how much higher on port area do you usually go for to account for the 45s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 None MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joemon Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I must have missed this info. But after finding the sq.in of port area needed, what size do u make the port opening? And if im doing two 8s and having the subs on opposite ends on their own chambers and doing the port to exit in the middle, would that mean id have to double the port width after they merge/share port opening? stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/105505-silvia-first-time-build-kenwood/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Assuming you're not tapering the t-line your port will be identical from beginning to end. If you are doing two t-lines into one you will double the size of the line where they combine (add the lines together). MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 This article has a lot of awesome info. I plan on building one for my dc 18 sooner or later. Since I have heard you are supposed to give lower power to woofers in t-lines would my level six be fine on a t2500 bdcp? 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 i was looking at running either a soundqubed hdc 3.0 10 or an ssa icon 10 HDC 3.0 10: QMS: 6.999 QTS: 0.355 FS: 41 Hz ICON 10: QMS: 5.5 QTS: 0.38 FS: 31.1 Hz which one would perform better? im looking for linear responce and good sq Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 i would go for the HDC. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 i would go for the HDC. I realllllllyyy want to try soundqubed but as fas as I can see on the website they only make a d1. My t1000 does 1400watts At 2ohms and 800 at 4ohm. The hdc has an RMS of 1000w and reading this thread it mentioned its easier to blow a sub in a t-line Think its still safe to run it? The icon can be dual 2 Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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