TonyTrendkill Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 yes the box is 14 in internally, and the width of the line is 5.25 in.... now that you brought that up i realized that my math is wrong i was using my external measurements for height like a dummy instead of the internal so now my line doesnt equal the 80in SD of the sub. when i measured the line i started where the motor ends, so without the 6 5/8 speaker depth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 I wouldn't worry about the line being a little less than 80 sq in. In my opinion setting the line area equal to cone area isn't always the right thing to do anyway. Due to the chamber you have where the sub is mounted I show your tuning coming out a bit lower at around 26 Hz. Its better to be tuned a bit low vs a bit high though. I'd suggest just building it and seeing how it works out. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTrendkill Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 https://imgur.com/gallery/FDyIe Got tired of trying embed images so there is a link to some pics of my progress. It is ALOT bigger than i had pictured in my head lol. Going to glue it together tomorrow and should be test bumping by the end of the week. Oh and to throw this out there to all the naysayers that you need lots of expensive equipment all i have used so far is a battery powered skill saw, and an orbital sander. To finish it i will use my roto zip and a drill. Ill have invested more into this box in materials than those tools cost me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTrendkill Posted August 10, 2017 Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 https://imgur.com/gallery/6uKDn Got it done and in the van. I dont have a mic to test but sounds like ive doubled my output with the tline vs my old box, im sure it was a prefab i got from a buddy, it also seems to have better sq. Im happy with the way it sounds but would love to test it with a mic and know for sure the performance of it. Still debating on carpet or bedliner, leaning towards carpet that matches. I also need to mount the box to the van hence the tie down strap for now and mount the amp elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted August 10, 2017 Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Awesome, glad to hear it worked out well for you. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MykeJ Posted January 1, 2018 Report Share Posted January 1, 2018 Hi I have 2 dd608 subs and would like to build a t-line for them. I am not sure if I should even attempt it with these subs because of there QTS of 0.512 they have a fs of 37.01. Because of the QTS should I go with a different box design? It is for a daily driver. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbmode2 Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 I AM THE ONLY ONE WITH NOT 1 2 3 BUT 6 8'S IN A 1/4 WAVE T-LINE SUB TUNE AT 31HZ'S IN A 4 DOOR SMALL SEDAN MY OPINION T-LINE SUB BOX IS THE CHEATER SUB BOXES OF OUR GENERATION...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realsoundillusion Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi guys, Just read up on this subject and I am very interested. I am planning a build for an SP15x 6kw woofer in my Mk7 ford fiesta 1.4i ambiente install to be in the boot. tuned to about 30Hz. So my understanding is that i need 11.3 ft3 t-line length. is this correct? Max dimensions 36x 15 x 19 Aim is to install 1x15spx 1/4 Wave Tuning Point: 35.695520469 Port Frequency 1: 39.338312443 Port Frequency 2: 31.000783476 Box Frequency: 34.115315144 Line Volume: 3.247628556 Recommended Line Volume: 2.695749204 Chamber Depth (inches): 6 X-Sectional Area of Port Front: 52.752 Maximum X-Sectional Area: 52.752 Port Front Width (inches): 3 X-Sectional Area of Port Rear: 52.752 Maximum X-Sectional Area: 35.168 Port Rear Width (inches): 3 X-Sectional Area of Port Exit: 35.168 Minimum X-Sectional Area: 127.6 Port Exit Width (inches): 2 Maximum Dimensions: External Height (inches): 19 External Width (inches): 30 External Depth (inches): 14.832 Material Thickness (inches): 0.708 Will this design work. Please any advise and or help will be highly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesc Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 so besides making the port bigger what does multiple woofers do to the t line calculaions? I am thinking about building a tline home sub with four to six drivers. I will have four 12s and possibly two 10s. I have attached the sheet for the 12s. The qts is a little high but I want low response so I will be tuning for 23hz. KAPPA PERFECT 12-1 Enclosure Sheet.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, stevesc said: so besides making the port bigger what does multiple woofers do to the t line calculaions? I am thinking about building a tline home sub with four to six drivers. I will have four 12s and possibly two 10s. I have attached the sheet for the 12s. The qts is a little high but I want low response so I will be tuning for 23hz. KAPPA PERFECT 12-1 Enclosure Sheet.pdf More drivers just needs bigger "port" area. Mixing 10"s with 12"s is not a good idea. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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