Skax Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 2/0 sky high IMO if you are bent on only doing 1 run You need to consider front-back voltage drop. Not just the wire's thermal capacity 0.52V with the 0guage wiring and 0.43volts with the 2/0 guage wiring. (that's with a 300A over a distance of 9ft , which seems a bit more then what will really happen)Not really something that would make any difference. (0.09V...) Start at 300a and see how that treats you. I'm leary of going any larger because you have stock batteries and alt. Any larger and I think you'll run the risk of the battery and/or alt not being able to supply enough power to blow it in a reasonable timeAll you have to do is fuse at the wire rating, the fuse is there to stop your wire from burning.A 300 amp fuse on 2/0 guage wiring won't stop him from blowing the amplifier if he isn't careful. OP: You will need a upgraded alternator with a minimum capacity of 200 amps, obviously choosing one that is 250 or a bit higher won't change the cost a lot but the price/performance will increase dramatically. my question is will I be ok with the 0awg with a 250 amp fuse cause I really don't wanna have to order new fuses and wire since i already have all my fuses and wires upstairs :/ 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 No, not if it is CCA wiring, if it's OFC wire then yes. But you can fuse higher then 250A with OFC and you will probably need to since both those amp can draw over 250A at full power. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 No, not if it is CCA wiring, if it's OFC wire then yes. But you can fuse higher then 250A with OFC and you will probably need to since both those amp can draw over 250A at full power. so what wire and fuse will I need for the 2500 and my TMA 440.4 it takes 50 amps 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamaman Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 What about another run of 1/0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 What about another run of 1/0.i wanna stick with 1 run cause idk how to do 2 runs or how it works . :/ 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Running 2 is the same concept as running one. The only extra "pain" is finding space. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Running 2 is the same concept as running one. The only extra "pain" is finding space.ok we'll I have to run 2 anyway right if I'm doing a back battery so I guess I'll do 2/0 so I only have to run 1 pos to pos and 1 neg to neg to the back battery ? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamaman Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 You don't need neg run, just find a good ground on your frame. How is 2 the same as one run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 2/0 sky high IMO if you are bent on only doing 1 run You need to consider front-back voltage drop. Not just the wire's thermal capacity 0.52V with the 0guage wiring and 0.43volts with the 2/0 guage wiring. (that's with a 300A over a distance of 9ft , which seems a bit more then what will really happen) Not really something that would make any difference. (0.09V...) Start at 300a and see how that treats you. I'm leary of going any larger because you have stock batteries and alt. Any larger and I think you'll run the risk of the battery and/or alt not being able to supply enough power to blow it in a reasonable time All you have to do is fuse at the wire rating, the fuse is there to stop your wire from burning. A 300 amp fuse on 2/0 guage wiring won't stop him from blowing the amplifier if he isn't careful. OP: You will need a upgraded alternator with a minimum capacity of 200 amps, obviously choosing one that is 250 or a bit higher won't change the cost a lot but the price/performance will increase dramatically. Regarding voltage drop: You are forgetting to account for the fact that car audio wire is oversized. With 0 gauge being closer to 2/0, and sky high's 2/0 being closer to 4/0. That is also voltage drop purely across the front-back wire, and doesn't take into account things like connections, wiring post-distribution block/battery, grounds going out of the amp, or the voltage drop across the frame. Your real world voltage drop will be a lot more. If I plug in a 15ft length of wire(front-back + ground length + rear batt-to-amp length), 300a load, and a wire temperature of 60C: I get the following 2/0 Alumnum: 1.36v 2/0 OFC: 0.83v 4/0 OFC: 0.52v That's roughly a .2v difference between the 2/0 and the 4/0. Pretty significant IMO. Dropping to 12.6 vs. 12.4.. 12 flat vs 11.8. Etc. And those rockford amps really don't like low voltage. With OP's electrical he'll need every bit of help he can get.. Regarding fuses: The fuses we use in car audio are referred to as "slow blow" fuses. You can run more than rated through a fuse and it will take some time to blow. Can't find the thread, but a member on here ran a stupid amount of power through a 300a fuse during a comp and it didn't blow. The fuse was all discolored from heat, but yet it didn't blow. Quick review on ohm's law I=V/R Current = voltage/resistance. V=RI Voltage = Resistance * Current Stock batteries aren't really known for being low resistance. That's why we upgrade them. High internal resistance in the battery = heavy voltage drop under load. Holds true with V=RI Now if we take a look at our current equation, I=V/R. If you lower the voltage (battery voltage drop under load) and your source of resistance is the short, wire, connections, fuse, return path, etc. It could take an extended amount of time for the fuse to blow. If at all. Hence why I said to err on the smaller side of a fuse rating. Also consider that with OP's electrical. Stock alt, stock battery. I doubt he'll be able to pull 300a through his front-back run. I see something more like pulling ~200a from the front batt+alt, ~100a from the rear battery ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skax Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 2/0 sky high IMO if you are bent on only doing 1 run You need to consider front-back voltage drop. Not just the wire's thermal capacity 0.52V with the 0guage wiring and 0.43volts with the 2/0 guage wiring. (that's with a 300A over a distance of 9ft , which seems a bit more then what will really happen)Not really something that would make any difference. (0.09V...) Start at 300a and see how that treats you. I'm leary of going any larger because you have stock batteries and alt. Any larger and I think you'll run the risk of the battery and/or alt not being able to supply enough power to blow it in a reasonable timeAll you have to do is fuse at the wire rating, the fuse is there to stop your wire from burning.A 300 amp fuse on 2/0 guage wiring won't stop him from blowing the amplifier if he isn't careful. OP: You will need a upgraded alternator with a minimum capacity of 200 amps, obviously choosing one that is 250 or a bit higher won't change the cost a lot but the price/performance will increase dramatically. Regarding voltage drop: You are forgetting to account for the fact that car audio wire is oversized. With 0 gauge being closer to 2/0, and sky high's 2/0 being closer to 4/0. That is also voltage drop purely across the front-back wire, and doesn't take into account things like connections, wiring post-distribution block/battery, grounds going out of the amp, or the voltage drop across the frame. Your real world voltage drop will be a lot more.If I plug in a 15ft length of wire(front-back + ground length + rear batt-to-amp length), 300a load, and a wire temperature of 60C: I get the following 2/0 Alumnum: 1.36v 2/0 OFC: 0.83v 4/0 OFC: 0.52v That's roughly a .2v difference between the 2/0 and the 4/0. Pretty significant IMO. Dropping to 12.6 vs. 12.4.. 12 flat vs 11.8. Etc. And those rockford amps really don't like low voltage. With OP's electrical he'll need every bit of help he can get.. Regarding fuses: The fuses we use in car audio are referred to as "slow blow" fuses. You can run more than rated through a fuse and it will take some time to blow. Can't find the thread, but a member on here ran a stupid amount of power through a 300a fuse during a comp and it didn't blow. The fuse was all discolored from heat, but yet it didn't blow. Quick review on ohm's law I=V/R Current = voltage/resistance. V=RI Voltage = Resistance * Current Stock batteries aren't really known for being low resistance. That's why we upgrade them. High internal resistance in the battery = heavy voltage drop under load. Holds true with V=RI Now if we take a look at our current equation, I=V/R. If you lower the voltage (battery voltage drop under load) and your source of resistance is the short, wire, connections, fuse, return path, etc. It could take an extended amount of time for the fuse to blow. If at all. Hence why I said to err on the smaller side of a fuse rating. Also consider that with OP's electrical. Stock alt, stock battery. I doubt he'll be able to pull 300a through his front-back run. I see something more like pulling ~200a from the front batt+alt, ~100a from the rear battery so what do you reccomend me getting could u give me a step by step on what I should get ? 2002 Mustang GT Procharged Procharger P1SC Supercharger, 8psi Procharger Intercooler, Headers, Borla Off Road X-Pipe Exhaust, Mass Airflow Upgraded Fuel Injectors SCT Flash Chip (Excaliber II), Throttle Body, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood -Front 275/40ZR17 -Rear 315/35ZR17 5.0 Short Shifter 3.55 Gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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