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Hey install guys! I am Steve as few of you know but I have a build log on another forum. I'm getting ready to set up the frontstage and have a question about running some speaker wire.

First off, running a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx hatchback. Front doors are components, rear doors are coax. I have some Infinity Kappa speakers for all of them (pictures) and a Sundown 125.4 to run them, all 2 ohm.

Heres the meat of it. The amp is going in the trunk, and running 4 runs of wire to each speaker. Now I have the money for and am considering running Knu twisted speaker wire to all of them. I like how it has a second layer of insulation that would prevent any damage during removal or anything like that. Otherwise I would just run their regular blue speaker wire. For you install guys, this 12g wire has the outside diameter of 9mm!!!

KAR12SS
9mm (.354)

Do you think that I would be able to really get this into each of the doors? Or do you guys like this wire just for show?
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Stuff is goin down, upcoming build

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Depends on your car, on my Honda I know I'll be able to run speaker wire through the rubber boot connecting the door to the car. I've also seen people add onto their stock molex plugs.

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

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There will be plenty of room to run the wiring, just takes time and is sometimes a struggle. Any sound deadening on the doors?

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If your car doesn't have molex plugs you should have a pretty easy time with it. If you can't reach the grommets from the inside of the cabin try running from the door into the car instead.

If you have molex plugs, it's pretty much guaranteed you're going to have to drill out your plugs for that thick wire, or drill new holes altogether! I went with the KNU 16ga speaker wire for this reason, people have reported it'll fit through the door molex plugs in my Sonic without drilling them out. 16ga should be enough with the short runs in automotive audio, even if you're feeding 125-150 watts. Hell I've seen similar 150wpc setups in home installs use 16ga for 50+ foot runs before.

If you have to drill your molexes, pull the molex plug out from between the door and the doorjamb, then drill out a couple empty pins. Thread the wire into the cabin from in between the door and the doorjamb, since it's a bitch to get under the dash in most new cars. I'm gonna be doing this exact thing in my Sonic next weekend (hopefully).

I really need a garage...

Price vs. Performance rules my life!

2013 Chevy :sonic:Hatchback!

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Mole plugs are the bane of the install world. What a pain in the balls.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

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2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

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Tsunami Wiring

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Thank you guys for the support. I'll get out there and take some pictures and see what I am dealing with. With that noted, drilling a 11mm hole with grommet into my door if I have the molex plugs to run this twisted 12g? Thanks for the feedback Rabid, with the speakers running at 2 ohm I want to run 12g. I kinda like the overkill. But if I went with regular Knu blue 12g, hole could be a lot smaller. Good luck in the sonic, I dig the signature.

Mole plugs are the bane of the install world. What a pain in the balls.

Yeah, I can understand why. If I drill a new hole, I could close it up pretty easily if I have to pull it out.

Stuff is goin down, upcoming build

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Those look like a piece of cake to me. I'll ignore the wore through the door jamb for power

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Looks like a simple rubber boot to me. Doesn't get any easier than that unless you had someone else to do the work for you as you stand over them with coffee and donuts and complain the entire time they are working. Jokes aside, that should be pretty straight forward. My doors are similar to those and running the wires were easy.

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Sweet, I'm going with the big stuff. Sorry, no deadener in the doors right now. The terrible looking power wire was a quick fix for a problem (isn't it always). Quick fused speaker wire from the battery to the cabin through there as a supplemental accessory power source.

Stuff is goin down, upcoming build

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