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Best thing i would say is check out WinISD, it is great for calculating boxes and ports for your system. I just takes a little to learn but not too bad. The Torres Box Tuning calculator is also super nice for saving time calculating cuts and area. Just google them they are both free.

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Also do you have Torres Box Calculator downloaded?

This will help you get a very fast estimate of how your enclosure will turn out.

You will also want to use this calculator and try to get your port area as close to its recommendation as possible.

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

The site seems to be down as of right now, but it is still a very highly recommended tool to use.

Also look into Thiele/Small parameters, they will be used in pretty much everything around enclosure design.

Just a couple of sites so that you can use the one that explains them the best to you.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/thiele.asp

http://www.members.shaw.ca/loudspeakerbuilder.ca/thiele-small.html

http://www.eminence.com/support/understanding-loudspeaker-data/

Also ask anything you are not absolutely sure about, no reason to go around messing something up. :)

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Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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Let's forget the idea of port area per foot.

Just focus on port area, as each different subwoofer needs a certain amount of area for whatever frequency you tune at no matter the volume of the enclosure.

For determining an adequate amount of port area you need to know 4 variables, The cone area of the subwoofer in use, the number of subs, the frequency you want to tune the enclosure at, and finally the Xmax of the subwoofer. The Xmax is a T/S parameter that is used to determine the amount of travel the subwoofer can travel in one direction while staying linear.

To get the amount of area in square inches you need you can use this calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 (site is up now).

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Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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Another quick note (great sub choice by the way) but when you build the box make sure to use 3/4" MDF, double up the baffle (this just supports the subs better and gets rid of any chance for baffle flex), and use bracing. I personally always subtract the volume that the bracing take up, this will just give you a more accurate graph from WinISD. But that is really personal choice if you want to go through the work to figure out the volume of bracing.

2002 Toyota Corolla


Pioneer DEH-80PRS


Soundqubed Q1-2200d


Soundqubed HDC3.118


Soundqubed Q4-120


Alpine SPR-60


Alpine SPR-60C

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I want to put a center brace that the aero port will be supported with so I don't have to add additional bracing for the port. I was going to double the baffle, and flush mount the sub. Also was going to do the sundown logo etched into the mdf but that's just for looks. I was thinking about using a 4 inch aero but I think that will be way too small

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Would it be easier if I did a square port?? I really want it to move some air, but I'm not very good with calculating ports and all. I build a l port box at 32 hz and it sounds amazing for why it is but I want something better and I want to get more out of my new box for the sundown

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Another quick note (great sub choice by the way) but when you build the box make sure to use 3/4" MDF, double up the baffle (this just supports the subs better and gets rid of any chance for baffle flex), and use bracing. I personally always subtract the volume that the bracing take up, this will just give you a more accurate graph from WinISD. But that is really personal choice if you want to go through the work to figure out the volume of bracing.

4 inch aero is perfect for 1 12, however 13 deep isnt very good lol!! prolly going to have to put the port on the side. what kind of vehicle is it?

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