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E8V3D2 box design for a 6 Series Convertible


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This is my first post but I have lurked a long time.

I recently was given an E8V3D2 as a gift from my wife. She knew I was looking at these and she surprised me with one out of the blue. I was looking at a Mobile Sound Works 8" ported box but didn't know if it will work well with this sub.

Here is the box....http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-SLOT-PORTED-MDF-ENCLOSURE-BOX-for-8-CAR-SUBWOOFER-0-75-ft-3-TUNED-34Hz-/200878352806?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item2ec54869a6&vxp=mtr

and the specs....

  • Single 8" custom slot-ported enclosure
  • Compatible with most 8" round woofers
  • 0.75 ft^3 slot-port tuned @ 34Hz
  • Solid 3/4" MDF construction
  • Durable dark gray carpet
  • Gold-plated binding post terminals
  • Box volume: 0.75 cubic feet
  • Tuned to: 34Hz
  • Woofer cutout diameter: 7" round (oversized subs may require slight mod)
  • Dimensions (W x H x D): 24" x 9" x 13"

The dimensions are perfect as it will fit underneath the shelf when I lower the top. I have 35"x35"x10" to work with and the box will fit nicely. Will this box work well with this sub and should I point the port forward or towards the rear of the car.

Also any suggestions on RMS watts to run to the sub and Amp suggestions would appreciated as well.

Thanks in advance.....

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Someone on youtube did a dual e8v3 6th order.. id say go for it haha. I ran my e8v3 in a t-line tuned to 32hz that I messed up (the line ended up being tappered, no expierence on tappered t lines and this was my first tline) and it sounded awesome. Great freq response, and got down low, loud ans clean. It was on a soundstream tx1300.1d @ 4ohms, says "550" rms. Probably around 450-500 plus rise so go figure.If in a regular ported box id say run 400-500 rms on it. Theyll take it no problem as long as you know what your doing. Id say go for the 6th for the hell of it.

Car:
- 2013 Honda Accord Sport 6MT

- aFe SRI

Electrical:

- Big 3 w/ Execution Audio 0/1 AWG OFC
- Stock Battery

Audio:

- JBL Power Series 6.5 Comps up front (Running off HU power atm)

- JBL Power Series 2-Ways in the rear deck (Running off HU power atm)

Subwoofer:

- Sundown Audio X-15
- CT Sounds AT1400.1D (@1 ohm)

Bedroom:

- Yamaha RX-V365

- Pair of Klipsch KG4.2's

- 2 E8v3's in a 1.34ft^3 tuned to 30hz
- No Amp yet..

- CoolMax ZU900B PSU for amp

In my room & previous car:
- Amp: Soundstream TX1.1300D @ 4 ohms (520 watts)
- T-Line Enclosure tuned to 32hz
YouTube : http://www.youtube.c...r8?feature=mhee

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Someone on youtube did a dual e8v3 6th order.. id say go for it haha. I ran my e8v3 in a t-line tuned to 32hz that I messed up (the line ended up being tappered, no expierence on tappered t lines and this was my first tline) and it sounded awesome. Great freq response, and got down low, loud ans clean. It was on a soundstream tx1300.1d @ 4ohms, says "550" rms. Probably around 450-500 plus rise so go figure.If in a regular ported box id say run 400-500 rms on it. Theyll take it no problem as long as you know what your doing. Id say go for the 6th for the hell of it.

No room for a 6th order box which is why I am wondering if this Mobile Soundworks box will be good for this speaker. Thanks for the wattage recommendation. I was planning on running 600rms to it.

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My bad, wasn't really paying attention.. I don't see anything wrong with that box.. What kind of amp?

I saw the title and thought it said 6th order, lmao fail.

Edited by soBASED

Car:
- 2013 Honda Accord Sport 6MT

- aFe SRI

Electrical:

- Big 3 w/ Execution Audio 0/1 AWG OFC
- Stock Battery

Audio:

- JBL Power Series 6.5 Comps up front (Running off HU power atm)

- JBL Power Series 2-Ways in the rear deck (Running off HU power atm)

Subwoofer:

- Sundown Audio X-15
- CT Sounds AT1400.1D (@1 ohm)

Bedroom:

- Yamaha RX-V365

- Pair of Klipsch KG4.2's

- 2 E8v3's in a 1.34ft^3 tuned to 30hz
- No Amp yet..

- CoolMax ZU900B PSU for amp

In my room & previous car:
- Amp: Soundstream TX1.1300D @ 4 ohms (520 watts)
- T-Line Enclosure tuned to 32hz
YouTube : http://www.youtube.c...r8?feature=mhee

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Still gotta find a amp. All the amps I have laying around won't work. Thinking about buying a Alphasonik PMA800DF.

Here are the Specs....

  • PMA Series Monoblock Class D Car Amplifier
  • Rms Power Rating:
    • 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
    • 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
    • 1 ohm: 800 watts x 1 chan.
  • Class D Circuitry
  • 1 Ohm Stable
  • Ultra Compact Chassis Design
  • Mil Spec Double-Sided Glass Epoxy
  • FR4 Circuit Board
  • Nickel-Plated Block Terminal
  • 4 Way Protection Circuitry
  • Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload. and DC offset
  • Low Level inputs
  • Input Sensitivity: 200 mV-8V
  • Variable Low-Pass Crossover: 50 Hz - 250 Hz
  • Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 20 KHz
  • THD: 0.12%
  • Variable Bass Boost: 0-18 dB
  • S/N Ratio: > 80 dB (+/-3 dB)
  • Wired remote subwoofer level control included
  • 4 gauge power and ground wiring recommended
  • Dimension: 5.93" x 2" x 8.27"
Edited by All-Or-Nothing
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Audio technix 400.1 would do the trick or the CT 500.1 Great amps for the money!

Car:
- 2013 Honda Accord Sport 6MT

- aFe SRI

Electrical:

- Big 3 w/ Execution Audio 0/1 AWG OFC
- Stock Battery

Audio:

- JBL Power Series 6.5 Comps up front (Running off HU power atm)

- JBL Power Series 2-Ways in the rear deck (Running off HU power atm)

Subwoofer:

- Sundown Audio X-15
- CT Sounds AT1400.1D (@1 ohm)

Bedroom:

- Yamaha RX-V365

- Pair of Klipsch KG4.2's

- 2 E8v3's in a 1.34ft^3 tuned to 30hz
- No Amp yet..

- CoolMax ZU900B PSU for amp

In my room & previous car:
- Amp: Soundstream TX1.1300D @ 4 ohms (520 watts)
- T-Line Enclosure tuned to 32hz
YouTube : http://www.youtube.c...r8?feature=mhee

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