Just a thought on batteries and charging systems.

[Wood]

Also, remember what our H.O. alternators are rated at usually isn't taking in to consideration rising temps under the hood and other things that keep the alternator from running at optimum efficiency. So you being conservative is a good thing.

Also, on one side of the coin, on music, 3300W rms is rarely actually a true 3300W and is only so for peaks and what not

On the other side, when at full tilt are you always at full alternator RPM to make rated power?

Way to many variables to nail it down, but enough info to get it close.

I always say just get close with calculations, round up and always do a little more instead of a little less.

Also I did calculations on how much I would be running total and it is right at 3k... I did the audio calculator and it calculated a D3400 and a small XP750 or D375.... So given that, shouldn't my alternator produce enough power to "substitute" such small secondary batteries?

[rockFord_Expedition]

How close were you on the calculator? Breathing room or nah?

Remember it says audio AND all other electrical. Your car can use around 700 watts just to operate.

And what do you mean by substitute?

[rockFord_Expedition]

Also, remember what our H.O. alternators are rated at usually isn't taking in to consideration rising temps under the hood and other things that keep the alternator from running at optimum efficiency. So you being conservative is a good thing.

Also, on one side of the coin, on music, 3300W rms is rarely actually a true 3300W and is only so for peaks and what not

On the other side, when at full tilt are you always at full alternator RPM to make rated power?

Way to many variables to nail it down, but enough info to get it close.

I always say just get close with calculations, round up and always do a little more instead of a little less.

I understand what you're saying! And I've never had it broken down like that!!!! very sophisticated.... esp considering amp efficency which basically means the amp draws more power then its capable of putting out so therefore you have to treat your electrical as such (learn something new everyday )

Also My ORIGINAL plan was to Have a D5100R up front and a D3400 as my secondary along with my Singer 230a.... After reading this I was thinking that It would be a bit overkill for only 2k worth of sub-stage and only around 600rms worth of mids and highs, but now I know it's necessary... Thank you!!!

No problem bro. That's what this place is for. To share info, make friends, and have fun.

Your Altima the 2.5 or 3.5?

[Wood]

How close were you on the calculator? Breathing room or nah?

Remember it says audio AND all other electrical. Your car can use around 700 watts just to operate.

And what do you mean by substitute?

LMAO Nahh no breathing room... I know I'm going to run my mids/highs at 4ohms so I'll only see a maximum of 720rms (which 2 of those channels will have very low gains) and the erason I asked is because that chart didn't include having a HO Alternator, it was just battery specific thats why I asked if my Alternator "variables" would substitue the small battery considering the calculator implied having a stock alternator.

Also, remember what our H.O. alternators are rated at usually isn't taking in to consideration rising temps under the hood and other things that keep the alternator from running at optimum efficiency. So you being conservative is a good thing.

Also, on one side of the coin, on music, 3300W rms is rarely actually a true 3300W and is only so for peaks and what not

On the other side, when at full tilt are you always at full alternator RPM to make rated power?

Way to many variables to nail it down, but enough info to get it close.

I always say just get close with calculations, round up and always do a little more instead of a little less.

I understand what you're saying! And I've never had it broken down like that!!!! very sophisticated.... esp considering amp efficency which basically means the amp draws more power then its capable of putting out so therefore you have to treat your electrical as such (learn something new everyday )

Also My ORIGINAL plan was to Have a D5100R up front and a D3400 as my secondary along with my Singer 230a.... After reading this I was thinking that It would be a bit overkill for only 2k worth of sub-stage and only around 600rms worth of mids and highs, but now I know it's necessary... Thank you!!!

No problem bro. That's what this place is for. To share info, make friends, and have fun.

Your Altima the 2.5 or 3.5?

Most def!!!

She is the slow poke 2.5 gas saver slow motion edition LMAO!!!! At Least she looks good when creeping LOLOLOLOL!!!!!

[Tecomah]

i got my banks cheaper than d 31s lol

Are you set up to run on just caps ... no BATTs? And I mean no BATTs in the entire car ... just CAPs & an ALT. =)

he has like 8 banks lol

[Bump4life]

i got my banks cheaper than d 31s lol

Are you set up to run on just caps ... no BATTs? And I mean no BATTs in the entire car ... just CAPs & an ALT. =)

he has like 8 banks lol

yea im giving him some ideas lol. he is using a battery until he sees what im saying.

but I will be running 8 banks out of the gate with no batts.

wont have to worry about charging them every weekend.

few things you need to check for before you switch to all caps.

1- what is your draw like with the car off? are you in the mA? have any parasitic draws?

2- do you play with the car off?

3 - do you leave car undriven for a long time?

4- whats your alt situation? the run of the mill 200A will work but for how long? not sure yet. talk to someone who can build bullet proof alts. get on that 12 diode 50A grind. or if you are like me modify your own to upgrade to 12 70A diodes.

5- what is your current draw like continously and how long do you want to play for? in turn how big is your alt, i mean true continous rating not that cold max bs.

do you have adequate wiring to get the most out of alt and out of caps. loq resistance is key with capacitors.

i must admit I too have even considered putting a small battery in with my caps to hold them above 12.8 when car isnt in use.

I did tests and after 3 days of no charge the cap banks still rested at 13.6+. so since my car is daily driven, leakage is not an issue.

gosh I could go on for a little bit about all the tests and calculations I did to be running all caps.

if you are a novice car audio guy until a commercial product is realeased or someone can build them for you caps can be dangerous and not worth it. but if done right, damn 56lbs of electrical supporting 10k daily, 16k+ on burps. cant argue with that.

[DubNDodge]

Something I would like to add/ask.

Starting up my car and driving for about 10 minutes I see a voltage of 14.6v. After about 40 minutes of driving and not having the music cranked what so ever, I will start to see 14.9v.

After a period of time can the alternator over come the internal resistance of the batteries?

[SlamminBeats]

i got my banks cheaper than d 31s lol

Are you set up to run on just caps ... no BATTs? And I mean no BATTs in the entire car ... just CAPs & an ALT. =)

he has like 8 banks lol

yea im giving him some ideas lol. he is using a battery until he sees what im saying.

but I will be running 8 banks out of the gate with no batts.

wont have to worry about charging them every weekend.

few things you need to check for before you switch to all caps.

1- what is your draw like with the car off? are you in the mA? have any parasitic draws?

2- do you play with the car off?

3 - do you leave car undriven for a long time?

4- whats your alt situation? the run of the mill 200A will work but for how long? not sure yet. talk to someone who can build bullet proof alts. get on that 12 diode 50A grind. or if you are like me modify your own to upgrade to 12 70A diodes.

5- what is your current draw like continously and how long do you want to play for? in turn how big is your alt, i mean true continous rating not that cold max bs.

do you have adequate wiring to get the most out of alt and out of caps. loq resistance is key with capacitors.

i must admit I too have even considered putting a small battery in with my caps to hold them above 12.8 when car isnt in use.

I did tests and after 3 days of no charge the cap banks still rested at 13.6+. so since my car is daily driven, leakage is not an issue.

gosh I could go on for a little bit about all the tests and calculations I did to be running all caps.

if you are a novice car audio guy until a commercial product is realeased or someone can build them for you caps can be dangerous and not worth it. but if done right, damn 56lbs of electrical supporting 10k daily, 16k+ on burps. cant argue with that.

why i run caps

cant wait to try them out.

[CJ18]

Holy crap. I get in the truck and drive for 8 hours and this blows up. I am lovin it!.

[CJ18]

One thing I read and would like to respond to.

Question- If I have a big enough alternator, then do I really need a secondary battery.

Answer- Yes and No.

Explanation-

No you dont really need the secondary battery since your alternator will be supply sufficient power for your full setup along with your front battery.

Yes you need at least a small secondary battery. This is just my opinion, but I like having at the very least a small battery in the back to run my amps directly to. Without this, then you have to run your power/ground wires from the front battery back to the amplifier(this is on average a 15' run). I would prefer to keep my power/ground runs from the battery to the amp 3' or shorter.

I will play with this theory on my test bench when I have some spare time to see what the results are.