Swordlordboy1234 Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 See now that post I 100% agree with. Let's hope one of the Tony's or someone pop in here. I just feel like in my system, 300a (ish) draw with a 200a alternator... If I had to describe my voltage I'd say the batteries are kinda like a topped off bucket. My batteries can help fill themselves below a certain level but above that they are just holding the extra storage for the alternator. This would explain why I can maintain 13.6 volts for about 10 seconds... And 13v for about 15 additional seconds (25sec so far) and below that (batteries rest at 12.9 in my car) the voltage drops much slower because the batteries are starting to input more work into the equation, because it will take over 2 minutes to go below 12.6. This example is also with my 200a alternator giving full output. But that's the best way I can think to explain it in my experience. You also have to consider and remember that music is dynamic. Its not a constant full tilt test tone. Let a 40hz tone rip for a full 30 seconds and then see how your voltage does.This is also kind of like the Amp Dyno. Testing in Certified and Un-Certified run a full tone for 15 seconds and is much harder on the battery bank. Then you test Dynamic and it is short burst(just like music). This is much less stressful on the electrical system. Also true, I was basing this off of a song with a constant bass line... Like juicebox, luv ya gurl, or in my case superfreak. This makes it a little more consistent but obviously not as consistent as a test tone. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yup that's exactly why I got caps And there is another dynamic to the whole electrical equation. For those of you reading this, he is not talking about the cheap caps you are going to get at walmart either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 See now that post I 100% agree with. Let's hope one of the Tony's or someone pop in here. I just feel like in my system, 300a (ish) draw with a 200a alternator... If I had to describe my voltage I'd say the batteries are kinda like a topped off bucket. My batteries can help fill themselves below a certain level but above that they are just holding the extra storage for the alternator. This would explain why I can maintain 13.6 volts for about 10 seconds... And 13v for about 15 additional seconds (25sec so far) and below that (batteries rest at 12.9 in my car) the voltage drops much slower because the batteries are starting to input more work into the equation, because it will take over 2 minutes to go below 12.6. This example is also with my 200a alternator giving full output. But that's the best way I can think to explain it in my experience. You also have to consider and remember that music is dynamic. Its not a constant full tilt test tone. Let a 40hz tone rip for a full 30 seconds and then see how your voltage does.This is also kind of like the Amp Dyno. Testing in Certified and Un-Certified run a full tone for 15 seconds and is much harder on the battery bank. Then you test Dynamic and it is short burst(just like music). This is much less stressful on the electrical system. Also true, I was basing this off of a song with a constant bass line... Like juicebox, luv ya gurl, or in my case superfreak. This makes it a little more consistent but obviously not as consistent as a test tone. Even with those, there are still short spots where the bass might still be on, but not as loud. Gives everything a quick second to catch back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I kind of figured that you weren't dipping into your batteries power until you reached around 12.5v but I was curious if my amplifiers would still get enough ampere's if my system dipped in the battery's power? Would the voltage drop affect my amplifier if the batteries can provide enough amps to feed it? for wattage to remain the same, as voltage drops amperage must increase. This creates a rise in heat. So yes it does affect your amplifiers, however the extent varies case by case as there are so many variables. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRON Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 True. I always question people who "don't have voltage drop" when they run big amplifiers but only a single alternator. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evermaxx Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yup that's exactly why I got capsAnd there is another dynamic to the whole electrical equation.For those of you reading this, he is not talking about the cheap caps you are going to get at walmart either. I got 10 boss caps. Y'all ain't fuckin wit meeeee! Lmao. *wishes he has money for caps* Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 True. I always question people who "don't have voltage drop" when they run big amplifiers but only a single alternator. This is because they have so much box rise that the amp may be seeing 4+ ohms and not putting out enough power or drawing enough current to create that voltage drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Great informational thread here!!! If a 12V battery has a higher resting voltage than 12.9V, then all you are seeing is a residual charge. As soon as draw is put on the battery it will drop to 12.9v or lower. If you are not getting into the 12.9-13.0v range, then you are not pulling enough power to get to battery voltage. Dont care what battery you are running in your battery bank. The average vehicle has around a 90amp alternator. SUV, trucks and larger vehicles are going to have bigger alts. Smaller cars and trucks are going to have smaller alts. The average though is around 90amps. You figure the average vehicle will take around 50amps of power to run the vehicles electrical systems. If you are running a system with 40-50amp draw or less, then with a good battery up front, proper wiring, and your alt working properly you shouldn't see a big voltage drop. Thing to remember on this (as has been said in here already) music is dynamic, so you are getting your biggest draws when the bass is hitting. When the bass hit stops, then your draw goes down dramatically. Along the same lines your alternator power will also change. Your alt is going to make more power when you are at higher RPMs. When you are stopped at a light or stop sign, then your alternator power will go down. The question comes up "Then why not just run enough alternator power and forget running battery banks?" Simple answer to this question is that running enough alternator power for larger systems just simply is not possible or efficient. 10K watt system pull around 1,000amps. Most vehicles have no chance of running 1,000amps of alternator power. Not enough space for alternators, no way to keep the belts from slipping, hard to keep the belts lined up correctly, not practical on a daily driver, too much drain on the engine, etc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Many alternators can't respond quick enough to make this a safe method. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I kind of figured that you weren't dipping into your batteries power until you reached around 12.5v but I was curious if my amplifiers would still get enough ampere's if my system dipped in the battery's power? Would the voltage drop affect my amplifier if the batteries can provide enough amps to feed it? for wattage to remain the same, as voltage drops amperage must increase. This creates a rise in heat. So yes it does affect your amplifiers, however the extent varies case by case as there are so many variables. Thanks, so is this when an amps efficiency comes in to play whether or not the amp will stay play as loud with a voltage drop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.