Kyblack76 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. I want bad. And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff. But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around. Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head. "i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt" "How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?" and such.... Maybe this needs to be PINNED ??? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thread of the year nom MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 id like to add to cj. you do need a certain amount of batteries to act as a buffer for yuor alternator. what I mean by buffer in this case is pretty much giving the alternator voltage regulator time to say "oh i am producing amperage, keep voltage up now". generally when you draw from the alt your voltage drops. this is either becuase you are pulling more than your alternator can supply, or you dont have enough amperage to absorb the initial peak hit of the sub amps. to keep it simple and not get into details about how the alternator functions, the voltage regulator adjusts current going into the rotor to produce certain voltage. it doesnt adjust instantly like the hit of music. thats why when people are told to add a battery if their voltage drops down low or spikes up to 15-16 after they let off. this is the voltage regulator "catching up". why we add batteries , or even better, why we add capacitors, is to help level off this voltage and give the voltage regulator an easier time and more time to adjust to the ever changing electrical demands. so the reason why we need at least 1 battery or more sized to the system is to hold a steady voltgage and to keep a lot of the peak demands off the alt. the best test of this would to put a multimeter on min hold and put at amp. a good meter will catch your actual voltage drop and you will see how good your buffer actually is. if anyone has more to add to this or to clear it up a bit please add. Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. I want bad. And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff. But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around. Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head. "i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt" "How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?" and such.... Maybe this needs to be PINNED ??? Take me to bed, uh, I mean send me pics or lose me forever! Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 It would be pretty cool to have a bank of caps, assembled with balancing circuit, inside a group 31 casing. Just buy the unit and install it XS power wink wink nudge nudge ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. I want bad. And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff. But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around. Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head. "i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt" "How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?" and such.... Maybe this needs to be PINNED ??? Take me to bed, uh, I mean send me pics or lose me forever! Lol. Naw dude. I just have MAXWELL pics, some from slamming and Chris. I gots no hush hush stuff. I'm gonna add alt before I do anything else. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Finally had the time to go through this whole thread. Just have to say thanks to all who put in great info, truly appreciate it, and must say that I Love this thread. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 Hmmm . . . In drag racing, if one racer comes up with an idea to improve the efficiency of their combination, they'll use the drag strip to prove it. By comparing time slips, one can easily determine if a change made was a good one or a bad one. Maybe it improved E.T., mph, 60', or even the interval times. Bottom line is, changes that work can be readily identified. The same can be said for changes that don't work. In car audio, we really need to become better at proving our theories. Recall your 7th grade physical science class - begin with a hypothesis then go to work to prove whether it is correct or incorrect. None of what I've read here is outside of the scope of "proving" for any clever SMD member with access to a quality DMM. Remember, you'll learn far more when you've got such conviction on an idea and then prove to yourself that you were wrong. Then the fun begins - why was I wrong? Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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