Why use 1/0 to 1/0 AMp Inputs?

[CJ18]

My questions have NOTHING to do about whether I like a product or not. I was simply asking a question in regards to your claim of it being a better connection over straight wire. Me asking you to prove your claims isn't me being a hater. It just means I would like to be a better informed potential customer. Because if I go and sell your products, and MY customer asks why its better, My answer has to be better than "because CJ told me it was better" None of this was to pour sand into your vagina.

I honestly have no explanation or scientific reasoning for these results, but using the 1/0 in my testing yielded a higher average power and higher average voltage.

This is just the thoughts I have, there may be truth to this, or I might be completely wrong, but this is just my personal conclusion to this.

1) The power/ground inputs on most amplifiers are not made of aluminum or copper, they are a zinc or nickel plated brass.

2) When you insert bare wire into an amplifier, it is then smashed down by a set screw. How do you know what kind of surface contact you really have inside of the amp then? The set screw smashes down into the middle of the wire and spreads the rest out. Same general thing happens when the wire is inserted into the 1/0 to 1/0 adapter.

3) As far as surface contact, the 1/0 to 1/0 adapter has a staub that is made to specifically fit a 1/0 amp input with a very tight tolerance. They cannot be made to be a 100% perfect and tight fit due to the fact that the internal diameter of inputs on amps can vary slightly from amp to amp. Not alot, but millimeters. The solid 1/0 staub provides as good if not better contact with the input on the amp than just bare wire due to the fact that it is a solid piece and not 5000+ pieces of stranded wire.

I am still waiting for the video to process and upload to show these results, it is a bit of a long video that some might not want to watch all the way through, so here are the clif notes.

Test 1- Bare OFC copper wire used straight to the amp.

10 consecutive tests were run on the dyno using Certified Mode at 1 ohm resistive and results recorded.

Total Watts- 23201w

Average Watts- 2320.10

Average Voltage- 13.743v

Test 2- OFC copper wire was inserted into our 1/0 to 1/0 Inputs that were then inserted into the amplifier.

10 consecutive tests were run on the dyno using Certified Mode at 1 ohm resistive and results recorded.

Total Watts- 23759w

Average Watts- 2375.9w

Average Voltage- 13.879v

Conclusion- Using the inputs, the amp produced an average of 55.8w MORE power while holding .136v higher. Approx a 2.5% increase in power.

On a small scale test, these results to me prove to show that the input are NOT a weak link and in fact yielded a small gain in this test.

There are other variable that could come into play as well that may effect the results. These could include better or worse electrical support, longer runs of wire from batteries to amp, different type of wire used, etc.

Point of this being though, these inputs in no way hindered the performance of this amplifier in this test. I could run this testing for days on end with so many different variables and get the same or different results, but at the end of the day I do not believe that there would be any large enough difference in any test to prove my theory incorrect.

[CJ18]

This is a very long video, but I wanted to show every last thing that I did and all of the results.

[n8ball2013]

Brian hit st the second part I was saying. I wiuld like the terminals to be able to accept the set screw. It would drive me crazy to have those screws stick up for one and I dont want a connection to pull out. If thry screwed into the terminal itself and the terminals were threaded and made to fit each amp id be more inclined to run them.

[CJ18]

Brian hit st the second part I was saying. I wiuld like the terminals to be able to accept the set screw. It would drive me crazy to have those screws stick up for one and I dont want a connection to pull out. If thry screwed into the terminal itself and the terminals were threaded and made to fit each amp id be more inclined to run them.

If all amps were identical and used identical parts, this would be easily able to be done. Yes, most are the same, but from the manufacturing side you have to make a product that fits as much as possible. It would then be up to the end user to add the final touches that they want to make it work for them.

[n8ball2013]

I get that cj just voicing my concerns and all that hopefully give you guys insight on how to make the product better.

[CJ18]

A notch would be doable.

[BigManAC]

Or maybe even a small lip on the end. Not much bit just enough to make sure it didn't slide past the set screw, that way it will fit everyone's amp and you wouldn't have to worry about the notch fitting everyone's amp.

[CJ18]

Or maybe even a small lip on the end. Not much bit just enough to make sure it didn't slide past the set screw, that way it will fit everyone's amp and you wouldn't have to worry about the notch fitting everyone's amp.

That would be tough. The staub that fits into the amp is such a tight fit, there really isnt much more room to do anything raised. A notch would be the only easily doable option.

[never knows best]

your results are skewed. the "float voltage" ranges from 15v-14.6v at the beginning of each test. when your talking about the minuscule gain your seeing that .4v skewed your results....

when you say there is absolutely no loss from using the inputs that is simply untrue. adding anything results in more resistance it is just so inconsequential in this application.

ps- not saying these are a bad thing!!! if you change amps often these would be a huge time saver. the difference is so small that I bet you could run the test a hundred times and get almost identical results with or without the inputs-

[CJ18]

your results are skewed. the "float voltage" ranges from 15v-14.6v at the beginning of each test. when your talking about the minuscule gain your seeing that .4v skewed your results....

when you say there is absolutely no loss from using the inputs that is simply untrue. adding anything results in more resistance it is just so inconsequential in this application.

ps- not saying these are a bad thing!!! if you change amps often these would be a huge time saver. the difference is so small that I bet you could run the test a hundred times and get almost identical results with or without the inputs-

If you would like to get that specific, I can go back and note the beginning and ending voltage for each test. I understand the float voltage. The reason that in the first test it had drawn down to 14.8v is because the amp had been turned on to be tuned before I started the video. This drew some of the surface charge off of the batteries.

This was also why I ran the test 10 times back to back with no charger on, only battery power. I would expect the results to show the same if I were to run the test 20, 50, or 100 times.

The entire point of this was to show that the inputs do not cause a loss because of adding another link. That was proven here. If there would have been less power produced and more voltage drop while using them, then the argument of them being pointless would then be valid, but that's not the case.