jbeez Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I'm wondering how this would work. I have a 2014 Taurus SHO and I'm researching electrical upgrades b/c im getting my amp to protect mode from voltage drop. I was thinking of replacing the stock battery with a 6500(should fit they're both group 65BCI). I have a zapco c2k 9.0XD rated for 2200w RMS I believe, and an RF 800a4. So I'm rounding my power needs to about 3000w for the car audio side. I have no idea what my stock car electrical requires to run, but it has a ton of gadgets in it. The factory alternator itself is 175a. I don't know the output curve, what its capable of at idle, or how it would handle charging a car audio battery upfront vs the factory battery. Factory batt is a BXT-65-650 which is 650CCA ford pn. This week I should be finishing the big3 w/ 0awg knu ofc and also running a 0awg from alt housing to trunk, where I have 2 small (no boos!) kinetik batteries. I may replace those, but I'm specifically looking for an XSPower D6500 for the front. I guess my big question is, will the pcm know how to charge one of these batteries vs the factory battery? I read somewhere(cant find it now) that the battery is a calcium battery and also the ford pcm uses battery temp to partially determine output voltage. This is all new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan @ XSpower Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Yes, your alt will charge it just the same. Make sure you have good connections with your power and grounds. You are doing a good thing by doing the Big3! Oh and yes the D6500 is a BCI Group 65 battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngbass98 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I would install a volt meter to see where your at, if you need to put a battery in the back or not. Quote 06 monte carlo 2 12 rockford p3s soundstream rubicon 2500 crescendo audio mezzo 6.5 ct sounds 125.4 execution audio and shca wiring 2 xs d3400 on stock alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 (edited) I put my kline multimeter on the zapco power inputs and it drops pretty good and then just goes to protect mode, iirc it went from 14 to the 12s in seconds playing some protohype(dubstep) edit: btw I do have 2 batts back there, they're supposedly 35AH each. I want to supplement them up front after I do the big three if im still having issues. And if I still have issues after adding front batt I'll either add 2 more of those or replace them if I can fit a bigger battery under my sub box. I need to worry about height because of how they sit: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iow8GE8U0Q0/U1V2-ouDaiI/AAAAAAAAAz0/mA5EOh4wDKA/w948-h536-no/IMAG0178.jpg as you can see here, the sub box sits over them: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A-yjy6sUPn8/U1x9zLyw-vI/AAAAAAAAA5s/fjvRDt_WMJs/w948-h536-no/IMAG0191.jpg (2 12" psi platform 2 w/ HD option in 4.3 cu/ft internal tuned somewhere between 28-31hz I can't recall exactly what I settled on atm) Edited May 7, 2014 by jbeez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Kind of related, since you mentioned good connections to power and grounds. What do you suggest for the ground terminal to the chassis, do you use anything like dielectric grease or a connection grease of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 i use dielectric grease helps with corrosion. where are you doing your grounds too? Quote On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 right now the battery bank is grounded to behind the rear seats. I'll be running a 0awg from the batts ground to the front alternator bracket hopefully friday. I'll also be grounding from that alt case to the front chassis, and I already have a 0awg ground from battery to chassis up front(which I'll be redoing b/c I got real terminals in to recrimp on that wire) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-inhk7Nn8-CA/U2VJJ4UpL0I/AAAAAAAABCs/fWXQO-mUV0w/w351-h620-no/IMAG0220.jpg I can probably shorten it a wee bit too. I got some nice heavy duty crimp lugs from waytek this week for all the runs I have to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 (edited) does your car have a frame if not ground to the shock tower much better ground. shocktower ground thats a frame gound [url=http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/rsnookie69/media/my%20mountaineer/battery%20bank%20and%20frame%20grounds/IMAG3490_zps6xjfihkx.jpg.html][/ URL] hope this helps Edited May 7, 2014 by Rich Schenk Quote On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 So would it be better to goto this shock tower even though the cable would be longer? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-scbzn07ba7A/U2q_oZKH-4I/AAAAAAAABFY/gy67pSUgUqk/w390-h689-no/IMAG0230.jpg Are you just going to one of the existing shock tower bolts? Don't those need to be torqued down to a specific ft/lb rating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 My big 3, the alt power cable to the battery factory goes to a starter solenoid and not directly to the battery. Should I lay a supplemental 0awg from the alt + to the battery or the starter terminal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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