littlehitter Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Alright, been a while since I've been on the forums, figured somebody might be able to help me out here. I have an audiopipe AP-18001 that I picked up from a member on here. You can hate but its what I could afford and it does the job for me. So on to the problem. I had it mounted in a bad spot and vibrations broke loose one of the toroids. The wires of the toroid rubbed until the coating wore away and it shorted out. Nothing else on the board appears to have been damaged. It just goes into protect when powered up. Is there any way to get a replacement and just solder it in? The one circled in green. Here is a better picture of the problem. Any help is much appreciated! Current System: Clarion CZ702 Stock 5 channel amplifier Infinity Reference 4022i 4" GRS 6.5" Audiopipe 1800.1 2 RE Audio SEX V2's In a 4th order ported though the armrest 2003 130 Amp Toyota Highlander alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaeton Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 You could give it a go. Not much else you really can do. If you cant fix it, its going in the trash anyway. 1997 subaru legacy outback Four 15's in a almost wall Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass Optima Yellow top batteries 270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) Lots of Second Skin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlehitter Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 That's what I figured, just gotta try and find out what the specs of the coil are I guess... And I have no idea how to do that! Current System: Clarion CZ702 Stock 5 channel amplifier Infinity Reference 4022i 4" GRS 6.5" Audiopipe 1800.1 2 RE Audio SEX V2's In a 4th order ported though the armrest 2003 130 Amp Toyota Highlander alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 IMO the time and the money it will take to fix the amp is not worth it. You would be better off buying a new amp. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 In my experience with simulations, if the power supply went my resistors and caps don't like it. Get a new amp that is worth the money. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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