Alex Osborn Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Hey guys, this is the setup: Stock alt ~100-120amp 14-14.2v stock battery 4gauge from the battery to the rear Pioneer gmd-8601 @ 2ohms(500w rms Class D) 2x kenwood kfc-w3013 2x40amp fuses on unit 2x stock speakers & tweets in the front 2xJVC 6x9's in the rear Alpine MPR-F250 4x4ohms(4x50w rms Class AB) 2x15 amp fuses on unit sony xav63 deck with RCA's to the rear Boss audio CPR3.5 3.5Farrad cap Anyway today i was bumping my setup which has been running fine for awhile and all of a sudden the fuse popped (60amp next to battery). Im wondering what you guys advise as im interested in a self-resetting circuit breaker however if the breaker cuts and the cap discharges then when the breaker trys to kick back in there will be a current surge causing it to kick out again? Im also wondering if i should just chuck a bigger fuse(say 90A) in there. Let me know what you guys think. -Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 remove capacitor. find out why your fuse blew. check all wire connections. so you have 2 amps in the back. a sub amp (500rms) and a highs amp (200rms), that has a max draw of around 110A. sounds like you are drawing more than the fuse you had in there. Id put a 100A fuse in the 4 gauge line and you should be good. if anything i said was incorrect let me know and i may change my reccommendation Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Osborn Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 why do u say remove the cap? as in unhook it to recharge with a resistor? or take it out of the build completely Yeah thats correct, doubt they would be drawing that much power though as the mono is rated for 1 ohm 800w rms and the mids+highs can do 2 ohm aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 take it out of the build. you dont need it. and small caps like that dont do much of anything anyways. use fuses. not circuit breakers. dont put bigger fuses. count the fuse amount on all the amplifiers. add it up. use a fuse that size. example, if you have 90 amps of total amp fusing, use a 100 amp fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 remove the cap from the system. sell it and get some money back. with that amount of stereo the stock system should be able to hold jsut fine without it. no circuit breakers either Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Osborn Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 alright im gonna up the fuse to 90-110 odd, however im keeping the cap as it smoothes out the voltage spikes nicely and only set me back $80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 alright im gonna up the fuse to 90-110 odd, however im keeping the cap as it smoothes out the voltage spikes nicely and only set me back $80 to be honest the cap will probably help most of the time. but if you are really digging into the system and playing constant bass it would eventually be a negative thing.but it can probably help with the size system you have. im not gunna argue against keeping it. if you were trying to run a larger system i would advise againt. Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoracing247 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 and just for future reference. i've heard that circuit brakers are bad because there is a lot more resistance across the switch then a fuse. but i honesltly haven't done the research myself to back that up. though im pretty sure it's true. I think you have a bit of truck stuck in your mud bro ~Ford Ranger, ext cabKenwood DDX4701/0ga stinger wiring for big 31/0ga ofc flextech wiring 3 kinetik 800's AQ2200 @1ohm Sundown Audio X15 in a 27Hz tuned ported box LE BUILD LOG!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 I think your fuse options for ANL will be either 100 or 150, mini ANL you could do 100 or 125. Personally, I've heard plenty of people advise against anthing bigger than a 125 amp load/fuse on 4 gauge wiring of any appreciable length. Just FYI, I'd go with 100; better to blow the fuse than damage the wiring or any connections. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Osborn Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 alright im gonna up the fuse to 90-110 odd, however im keeping the cap as it smoothes out the voltage spikes nicely and only set me back $80 to be honest the cap will probably help most of the time. but if you are really digging into the system and playing constant bass it would eventually be a negative thing.but it can probably help with the size system you have. im not gunna argue against keeping it. if you were trying to run a larger system i would advise againt. The general rule of thumb i have heard is 1 farrad per 1000w rms so i have gone overkill in that sense, i just wanted to stop it dropping all the way down to 12.6v, now it sits stays above 13.8v at full tilt while im moving and just for future reference. i've heard that circuit brakers are bad because there is a lot more resistance across the switch then a fuse. but i honesltly haven't done the research myself to back that up. though im pretty sure it's true. Yeah that doesn't surprise me, Agreed. The only thing they have going for them is the convenience if your tripping them all the time, which you shouldnt be anyway. I think your fuse options for ANL will be either 100 or 150, mini ANL you could do 100 or 125. Personally, I've heard plenty of people advise against anthing bigger than a 125 amp load/fuse on 4 gauge wiring of any appreciable length. Just FYI, I'd go with 100; better to blow the fuse than damage the wiring or any connections. At the moment its an AGU fuse, iv looked into it and i should be able to get some 100amp ones online Cheers Guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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