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Updated 3/20/15, Fanaticz shows his Hoe some love finally... Spring is here back to work!


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Not much of an update today but a slight one.

Pulled out the majority of the old rear a/c lines.

The lines have leaked many years ago and emptied the truck of freon (pretty common thing with these lines).

I wanted to keep the rear a/c and use it to cool the amplifiers however I ended up going fairly wide with the wall and there was no way to fit it.

I think I took pictures earlier in the thread taking apart the unit for its stupid strong blower motor which will suck in air from outside the vehicle (hence the second pvc fitting on the passenger side).

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Was removing some stupid strap under my truck and broke my bit :(

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Now I have to take a vacation from my hoe to work on this vehicle and completely gut it, put deadener through out, run power wire, integrate the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 into the factory touch screen unit, and run speaker wires to the doors and install door speakers. It is a 2014 Dodge Journey.

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Wires all coming out the back pvc grommets(the 3 batteries are for the Dodge Journey and just needed a place to store them for the time being). lol

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These are the power wires running from front to back, just sprayed some black paint on them to make them blend in, will probably spray them with something thicker like bed liner for more protection from salty roads in the winter. pretty much the same thing on both sides so it dont pay to post pics of the same thing. Wires are attached to the bottom of the vehicle body above and to the side of the frame rails.

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Under the hood for the time being, need to install the new toolmaker battery blocks, but need fuses and fuse holders long before I can hook up the wires.

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Wheels back on the hoe and off the jack stands so I can move it out my way in the driveway for the Dodge.

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Yes it is CCA wire, and before anyone goes on a OFC vs CCA thing again here is why...

I bought this wire a couple years ago when I was on Team Audio Technix.

I got a good price on the wire and bought a lot of it, but all the smaller 8 and 4 gauge wires I also got was used a long time ago.

So with me running the CCA wire I was able to get a lot higher amperage handling compared to OFC wire for about half the cost (even with the team member price discount I could of gotten as well on the OFC wire). Yes I will need more runs of CCA compared to OFC but its half the price and only double the runs.

When I fuse my wires I fuse for safety not for the wires rated amperage load like most do. If I do end up fusing to small and blow the fuses than I buy the next bigger size in fuses. Its a lot cheaper and easier than dealing with a vehicle being burnt to the ground.

If I remember correct the wire is rated at 250amps for a 20foot run of wire.

My runs are 19 feet long.

So here is some quick simple math, now that the cheaper in price thing was said.

I plan to fuse each positive wire in the front and the back (between both the front and rear battery banks) with either 150, 175, or 200 amp fuse. Not sure which yet

For this breakdown I will use the 150amps per run which will not even come close to stressing the wire what so ever.

So 9 runs of positive wire at 150 amps per run will total me 1350 amps of current and not even stressing the CCA wire one bit!

I have 3 DC Power 390XP alternators capable of doing 390 amps of current each when cold which is the most they will do since the amperage output drops significantly when they are hot.

So the 3 alternators come to a total of 1170 amps of current.

So already I got 180 amps of overhead and once the alternators are hot I will get even more overhead.

Now if this wire can truly handle 250 amps of current per 20foot run, it will handle slightly more being only 19foot runs.

Even though I will be most likely fusing at 150amps per run the fuses will handle slightly more current before blowing.

9 runs at 250amps per run is 2250 amps of current these positive wires can handle.

Run for run OFC wire will walk all over CCA wire, but unless the ratings of the CCA wire are completely false 2 runs of CCA should be able to handle more current than the single OFC wire and still be half the cost (at least in my case it was). Sure Id have to run less OFC wire, but since room for the wire is not an issue and the same could be done with CCA I used CCA.

I will be using OFC wire from my alternators to my 2 front XS Power S3400's.

I will also be using OFC wire from my rear batteries to my amplifiers.

I will also be using OFC wire for my speaker wires for my woofers.

These are the 3 areas where I feel OFC wire will benefit me more, and wont empty out the wallet.

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Impressive & Inspiring!

About the CCA vs OFC, I recon the issue is not only about amperage rating with regards to fusing, but the general heating over time which builds in the wire when current passes through. Ie, the wire eventually gets warmed up in a way that OFC does not, which causes voltage drop even if the fuses won't blow.

Don't like sharing your knowledge?

Welll.. Don't come here and grab others then! - GTFO.

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what numbers does it do :unknw:

:ninja:

A solid goose egg :buttlick:

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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Tuned In

The L@zy Hoe

 

 

2005 Chevy Tahoe

2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids

4 10 midrange

4 6.5 midwoofers

4 Tweeters

6 Supertweeters

2 Lithium 80AH Batteries

24K Watts

4 Custom 18s

Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s

Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works

 

The Build Log

Like Loud Bass? Click Here!

 

On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said:

See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on.

On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said:

I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!

 
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Impressive & Inspiring!

About the CCA vs OFC, I recon the issue is not only about amperage rating with regards to fusing, but the general heating over time which builds in the wire when current passes through. Ie, the wire eventually gets warmed up in a way that OFC does not, which causes voltage drop even if the fuses won't blow.

Thee CCA wire will not get hot if its not being stressed..

It has a 250amp rating at 20feet, im running 19foot runs.

Im fusing for 150amps most likely, therefor if there is an issue the fuse should blow long before a 250amp fuse.

Depending on the fuses, they will most likely blow someplace around 175-200 amps if an issue ever pops up.

At that point its still long before exceeding the limit of the wire.

OFC wire as well can get warm and even hot to the point it melts of the rubber casing when you exceed the amperage limit of the wire, so that is kind of a moot point.

Run for run OFC will win, however its not run for run of wire, its multiple 9 runs of CCA wire that costs half as much of 4 runs of ofc and carries the same amount of current, and with all these runs I am only needing each cca wire to handle around 150amps to satisfy the demand of the power i can make under the hood.

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