12" DC Solo hX2v.3 Subwoofer Build Log

[Purplehaze]

Hello friends!

Just wanted to share my latest build with you. I call it the "DC Solo hX2v.3". This build started about a year ago, when I picked up a Solo X 12 motor from Cody J.. I was going to try to find three more, and use these motors to build the subs for my car. But I didn't have much luck, and had a really bad winter overall, and so the motor just set in my closet until about three weeks ago. And it still set around, until last weekend, when my Solo X 15 was sold. Although I needed the money, I really hated selling that sub. (it was my baby...) So I got to thinking, and decided it was time to use this motor, and build another Solo X.

So I spent several days going over the different parts I have, and what I can get, just deciding what direction I wanted this to go. And after many different mock-up's, I finally decided to go this route. Main reasons are: A. These parts will work perfect together, I mean perfect. And B. I didn't want to build something here that has already been done several times, I wanted this one to be different. I think I accomplished that.

Here are the parts it consists of, and a few finished pics (so you don't have to wait until the end).
- Kicker Solo X 12 motor.
- Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2 basket. (cast aluminum, nice frame if you really look at it)
- DC Audio 3" d2ohm 4-layer flat-wound high-temp coil.
- Sundown Zv.3 12" cone/ surround (double stitched) & gasket.
- Dual progressive roll (med. soft) Nomex spiders (Stitched over-sized tinsel leads)
- 10g chrome push terminals (PSi)

Finished pics:













Okay, so now to see how it all came together.

The first step was to clean the motor, especially the gap. This was a MAJOR pain, especially since someone didn't tape or cover the gap when they removed the original square frame. It took me over 3 hours just to get it clean. What wound up working best was taking it to the car wash, plugging up the bottom plate vent, and giving it hell!! (sorry, no pics)

So once I was sure the gap was clean, the next step was choosing a frame. I chose to use the hx2 frame (basket) over a standard 12-spoke, a TI frame, and a DD frame. The reason was a. because it's low profile allows me to use the DC coils (that I already have) that fit the gap PERFECT! And b. I really liked the way it looks; I have never seen one built this way with these parts. And c. Everything just fit and works together so perfect, my gut said "Do it!"
I think a person who didn't know any better would believe it was original, that it came this way from Kicker. I think it looks stout.

So here is the build, all started with mounting the frame, and finding the right parts.





This is where it is important to make the right decisions. Just because a coil fits into a motor's gap, doesn't mean it is right. You have to be sure it fit's the gap properly, and that you wont have clearance issues, such as coil rub or bottoming out. In other words, time and research really matters. Sometimes people can get lucky and throw parts together into a sub and it turns out well, but usually it will be a failure, unless you research the parts and make sure they are going to be right.

[Purplehaze]

So once everything is ready, time to clean the frame. Gotta be sure to get it to bare metal, and I like to go around it slow at the end, to give it nice deep gouges for the glue to stick to.



Then I did the spiders, which is no fun. (I hate sewing) After stitching I like to use rubber glue on the bottom of each stitch, just to make it strong.



Dual (2) progressive Nomex spiders



Then time to center the coil, and mark the coil It has to be centered two ways; it gets centered to the pole with shims, and it gets centered in depth to the top plate gap. (this part gets overlooked a lot, but is more important than you may think) The way I do it is like this; I place masking tape on the coil. Then I mark dead center. Then, I measure the height of the gap on the top plate, cut that in half, and measure that far up from the center, making another mark. That is the mark you then use to see what the depth of the coil needs to be. Like this:





Then you can glue the spiders to the former, on the bottom side.





From here it's all cake, just don't get in too big of a hurry! (rushing can be costly)











Don't forget to remove the shims!!!



And there she is. I'm going to put it in my daily PT and test it out today, so I'll let you guys know how it does, and what the parameters are and such. But overall I'm happy with the way it came out. Definitely one of a kind! Almost like a ratrod sub, except I think this is too pretty...

So, what do you guys think? I'm anxious to hear some opinions on this (good or bad) especially from the old timers.

[BLuejoules]

Very cool looking sub. What would you say the RMS is on this beast.

[FieroGrande]

I love it. Nice write up.

[Purplehaze]

Very cool looking sub. What would you say the RMS is on this beast.

Thanks! I was thinking ~1500 watts RMS for this. Although I'd say she will take 2500.

I love it. Nice write up.

Thanks man.

Yeah I figured I'd share a few tips, for those who take the time to read my threads.

[MarioB]

I FUGGIN LOVE IT

[hammiethebasshead]

damn good looking sub. I love seeing your work. I want to see the build on those 8's though

[VIPmeetSPL]

And She's a beaut badass sub we got here !!

[Purplehaze]

Thanks guys!

damn good looking sub. I love seeing your work. I want to see the build on those 8's though

It's coming, I 'm trying to get all the pictures together for it. I started those last winter, before my girl ruined my computer, so some of the most important build log pics are stuck on that hard drive. But I will get it up soon

I FUGGIN LOVE IT

I thought you may like it. Hey if we can find 11 more motors, you could have 12 of these in your clam-shell...

[Purplehaze]

I was hoping the title would get us a little more attention...

I wanna hear what the older guys think.

Especially the old bass heads from back in the late 80's/ early 90's.

Has anyone ever seen a kicker motor on a rockford frame, built as a working sub?