may03LT Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I've been super busy in the shop but have made some headway with the 57. Here's a peek of the drivers POV and there are no more wires hanging below the dash line and no more toggle switches. The car had two massive chrome toggles, one which did nothing, and one which was posed to turn on the A/C but didn't. The HVAC controller in the pic is an older vintage air unit which has an A/C switch built in (it's activated when you pull the "heat" lever all the way up). I used that switch to trip a Tyco relay which allows the A/C to work without hitting a toggle. Neat. Another shot of the dash line. Now, about those mismatched pedals..... This aux fuse/relay center is stashed deep in the fender. I shoved my phone in there to try to get a pic and this is the best I could do. The problem - Numerous accessories have been added to the car which the aftermarket wiring kit/fuse block were not designed to handle. The solution - several items from CEAES were used to power these accessories. I used two of my personal favorite item, the FPATC6 6 position fuse block, to make a constant fuse panel as well as a switched (key on) fuse panel. The e-fans, MSD ignition, dd controller, e-fan controller, and A/C system are tied into this. Not shown are the several tyco relays which control the A/C, switched fuse panel, horn, and one per e-fan. By doing this, all "add-a-fuse" crappy taps are gone, and should any of these components in the car need to be serviced, everything is in a central location. This might not be exciting to some peeps, but one thing that bugs me is when wire is ziptied to stuff that it shouldn't be. The undersized alt charge lead was zip-tied to the proportioning valve. The problem - unsecured, unfused wires ziptied to things that they shouldn't be. The solution - numerous rubber lined clamps like the CLAMP12-10 were used to secure the wiring. I take pride in the fact that no holes were drilled (by me) since I was able to existing bolts/holes to secure the clamps. Another possible unexciting part of the project. I am not a fan of tying anything to the starter stud except the battery feed lead. So, one lead off of the battery positive goes into a "vintage" looking bussman fuse holder to protect the starter lead, while another lead goes into this FHANL3 fuse holder. This is hidden from view behind the battery. Several people, including the owner, have been looking right at it and haven't noticed it. That's the idea. You may also notice more rubber lined clamps to keep things in place. I had to clear out the shop for the weekend, so I got the car driveable so the owner could take it home for the weekend. He ended up enjoying the car for the first time. He called me yesterday tickled to death that the car has been reliable and everything works. I picked it up tonight to take care of some loose ends and hopefully she'll be wrapped up this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Lookin' good Andrew! Your workmanship is very nice. Keep that up and you're gonna' be in demand in those parts for the hot rodders! Quote Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Ive noticed some of the same things with Hot Rod that come through my shop. They use a lot of toggle switches to turn fans on and off. and what not. Looks good man keep up the good work. Quote Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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