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Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's.

My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront...

As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries.

My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?)

Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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buss bars where?

2000 Toyota Camry With Sealed Off Trunk

Sky High OFC Wiring

DC Power 270 XP Alt

AQ 2200 Sub Amp

Two DC Level 4 m2 12s

80 Mil Murdetmat

Gathering Parts For Wall Build.

Team DC Audio 2014 Member

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Somewhere in the trunk... Haven't designated a spot for them yet. I can make a platform behind the passenger side wheel well, or even driver side I suppose (more wire), and put (2) 1/4 or 3/8" x 2" x 6" copper bars back there. Could even run them down in the spare tire well, or off my rear bank of batteries. I can fabricate and machine, so if I need to do something off my rear batteries or elsewhere, it shouldn't be an issue...

So, anything on my question?

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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On how to properly run a second line? Or am I making this too difficult?

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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Pics of how the batteries are connected/placed might help us give you ideas.

if I was you though if do 2 runs of positive (ofc 1/0gauge). Make sure your grounds are equivalent to the size and amount of pos runs. Alum buss bars connecting the batts if possible. If not just a short run of 0 gauge from batt to batt will be good.

its a Toyota right? If so I'm guessing a lot unibody. 2 runs of negative front to back might help but I've heard that strut tower grounds do good.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Alaskan, yeah its a 2013 Toyota. I finally found the rear strut tower on the passenger side and grounded there as well. So currently, I have grounding points on the body (behind back seat), the negative post on battery, and now a run of 1/0 from strut tower to negative post. All my grounding seems legit. I guess what I'm not understanding is, if all my batteries are connected in a parallel configuration, 1 up front, and 2 in rear, would it really matter if the second run comes from the front? (I just read this and it would have to come from upfront, to include the front battery. Otherwise I would have a bottle neck there.) I've also thought about adding a small piece of copper flat bar on the positive connection on my alternator and doing a second run to the front battery from there. I would of course include a second negative run from the mounting bolt that attaches the alternator to the engine block.

I think Im going to do a second run of 1/0 OFC of course, from alternator + to front battery, front battery + to rear battery +, then second runs of 1/0 from battery+ to battery + and battery - to battery -, in the rear. Basically, double up my current setup. I would include doubles runs on all grounds as well. Just didn't know if there was a way to do this without using so much 1/0 OFC. I want it done correctly the first time, so if a shortcut could potentially create problems, then I would rather avoid it. I was thinking buss bars would make the install look and be performed much easier, as all I would have to do is bolt down ring terminals to the proper bar. I could make that look very clean, instead of having wire coming off batteries in every which way (like I do now). I don't have pictures of it right now, as it's not a permanent addition. I just threw the batteries in the rear, made sure they were secure, and I have 1/0 wire running everywhere. Looks extremely sloppy right now... That's why I'm considering buss bar's. I could make the install and finished application look really nice and professional.

Guys, I think I answered my own question. I guess sometimes you need to type it out for it to make sense. If anyone has any suggestions to help the install go smoother, or any other pointers dealing with wiring and electrical, I am definitely all ears. Like I said, I'm still learning.

One other thing Alaskan, you are the guy who bought the HDC3 10's right? If so, how you liking them? I'm tossing up HDC10's or 12's at the moment. Just getting the amp and electrical all worked out before the subs get here. Keeps me patient that way :nuts:

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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you dont need to double up the runs on the battery bank.. the length is so small it wont help

Thanks for the advise. So double up on alt + and alt ground, and another run 1/0 from front to rear and call it good? It would definitely look cleaner that way. You don't think I will experience any voltage drop from not adding the extra runs for the rear batteries? Sounds good to me...

I wish there was a way to get my voltage up over 14 all the time. I HATE the regulated alternators... Do you think if I went to Toyota and asked them to flash my ECU for a higher charging voltage, do you think they would do it? Any recommendations on that? I would sure like to get my 200-400 watts back that my effin' alternator is keeping me from.

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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if the run from alternator to front battery is short then only 1 run to the front battery will do.. you would only need to worry about the long runs

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if the run from alternator to front battery is short then only 1 run to the front battery will do.. you would only need to worry about the long runs

It's about a total of 5'... Fairly short run

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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Share on other sites

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