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Mid placement help & opinions please.....


bcbrassard

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If you are going for any good sound all the way to SQ I would get the mid as close as possible to the tweeter.

Thanks, i have heard people debate both arguments about tweeter location. I prefer mine up a bit higher. Now had i not cut a hole into the panal i would have glassed them in closer but for now it is what is. Live and learn...right.

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What room i have behind the kicker panels. And whats behind the door panels.

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Doors deadened and accoustic foamed inside and out. Sealed off as well. But needs some foam to keep some of the rattles down.

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If you are going for any good sound all the way to SQ I would get the mid as close as possible to the tweeter.

If we are tslking about something along the lines of a 4" or 5.25" driver, then I agree 100% ...

But a 6.5" or 8" driver ... Should be good with time alignment with a nice un-noticeable overlap.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Lancerstereoupgrade3019_zpsb1e93ba9.jpg

Move those wires out of your way and wiretie them up. No re-wiring should be done there ...

You have it better than most cause you don't have to worry about E-Brake cables. You have a nice wall there that needs to be cut out.

This way you can use all of that air space behind the pannel and in the fenderwells ....

Re-install the kicks and see if there is any diference. chances are that your drivers will be able to handle much more power given more airspace they have to work with ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Thank you sir, i will work on removing kicker panels and cutting out metal this weekend. Sound deaden behind area i will cut out and report back the change.

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So i worked on cutting out the cab metal behind the kicker panels to vent the midbass. I will start out by saying if you know someone with a plasma cutter....Used it. Dremel grinding disc to slow, I had to drill holes in the pattern i wanted cut out then use dremel between holes. SLOW going!

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This is Stock...

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To something like this...worked on passanger side & this is driver side.

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To something like this.... I forgot to take a pic of wiring mounted back but you get the idea.

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And another pic... sorry they are not the greatest.

So long story short and only able to get one side done in 4+ hrs it is a amazing difference. Well worth the hard effort. I put the T265 comp back in it and with driver side not done yet you can balance left to right and hear a big difference. Amazing how its the little thing that make such a huge gain. If i could get my hands on another set of stock kicker panels i would redo with 8" drivers.

I thank those SMD members that helped. system is sounding better all the time.

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Glanced over a few posts. A lot of this depends on the drivers you're using. If you're using a driver suited for IB, then vent the fuck out of the back, but if it's not.... You'll want driver optimized for sealed back. In kicks, you'll almost always want a driver that is designed for a sealed enclosure. No sense in modifying your vehicle, unless it's truly cost effective. Recently, I'm setting up my 328i. My tantric midbass drivers are IB suited drivers but they hate my door setup since it's more of sealed setup than a massively open area.

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Thanks for the info, modifing a POS car with a killer system is ok with me. Both drivers are IB and i got great results from this. The CDTs are either IB or Sealed. The space behind the kicks wasnt allowing the driver to move much. Now it breaths and sounds amazing compared to the mid/tweeter it was.

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My concern is having different mids in different configurations in the same build. You lose consistency.

With the setup you have right now, I feel like you're losing. Unless your kicks where midbass and doors where actual mid range.

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Well thanks for the concern. Not competing in any SQ class, or any any other. Just building and learning. CDTs will be midbass in the kicks and glass up doors for T2 & T3 midrangeand down the road get another set of T3 or a pair of matching speakers for doors. It all sounds good right now and just keeps getting better. Its my 3 yr project and just having fun.

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