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H/o Alt, voltage drops


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^doesnt always work, I ended up having the regulator swapped on my ho alt

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

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Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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I was thinking ELD.

Yea, it WILL hurt performance. Now, whether or not you notice performance loss.. That's a different story.

A buddy had a similar issue. When he got a GM reg installed, he noticed an audible difference.. And then gained on the meter (fuck the meter :) )

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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I was thinking ELD.

Yea, it WILL hurt performance. Now, whether or not you notice performance loss.. That's a different story.

A buddy had a similar issue. When he got a GM reg installed, he noticed an audible difference.. And then gained on the meter (fuck the meter :) )

Did they drive a Honda crv :peepwall:

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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With a TON of decals? Yes!

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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Wow I didn't know about this, I'm still a pretty big noob. Does it hinder audio performance in any way? - the DC 3.5K is rated at 3500watts only when at 14.4V. Does this mean i Don't get full performance.

Tron do you get this voltage drops while you are driving and battery is charged?

Your vehicle probably has a PCM controlled regulator right? If so, that's pretty normal. It's the computer lowering the voltage because the battery doesn't need to be charged and thus decreasing the output of the alternator to increase fuel efficiency, not much but a little bit.

Happens on my truck all the time, starts up at 14.8 and drops as low as 12.8 if my batteries are fully charged up.

It happens when the batteries are charged up, and nothing other than the basic electrical components to run the vehicle are being used. As soon as I turn on the A/C, high beams, heated seats, or turn volume all the way up, the PCM senses the extra demands and bumps up the voltage.

These "smart" charging systems are pretty standard in newer vehicles, I'd say from 2007 and up.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

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Wow I didn't know about this, I'm still a pretty big noob. Does it hinder audio performance in any way? - the DC 3.5K is rated at 3500watts only when at 14.4V. Does this mean i Don't get full performance.

Tron do you get this voltage drops while you are driving and battery is charged?

Your vehicle probably has a PCM controlled regulator right? If so, that's pretty normal. It's the computer lowering the voltage because the battery doesn't need to be charged and thus decreasing the output of the alternator to increase fuel efficiency, not much but a little bit.

Happens on my truck all the time, starts up at 14.8 and drops as low as 12.8 if my batteries are fully charged up.

It happens when the batteries are charged up, and nothing other than the basic electrical components to run the vehicle are being used. As soon as I turn on the A/C, high beams, heated seats, or turn volume all the way up, the PCM senses the extra demands and bumps up the voltage.

These "smart" charging systems are pretty standard in newer vehicles, I'd say from 2007 and up.

Ok cool, as long as when i start to turn the audio up it will call for more more voltage. I have not hooked up my new sub yet so have been unable to test.

Front Mids/Tweeters: Focal K2 POWER


Rear Deck Mids: Focal 165ca


Subwoofer: (1) DC Level 5 15"


Highs/Mids Amp: Mosconi Gladen One 120.4


Monoblock: DC 3.5K


Headunit: Kenwood Excelon DNN990HD


Batteries: Optima Yellow Top (hood), Kinetik HC600 (trunk), XS Power D3100 (trunk)


Car: Accord '08 Coupe... terrible trunk shape : ' (

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  • 3 weeks later...

I drive a 2013 Camry and experience this issue as well. Welcome to Japanese cars. Regulated voltage BS. I have a Mechman 240amp and in the winter when I start my vehicle up, I will see 14.4 on occasion. In the summer here in Houston, my typical idle voltage is 13.4. Rev engine and can get to 13.7. Drive on freeway 70mph and I run around 13.9. My voltage bounces around everywhere, so what you're experiencing isn't uncommon. You should really try to buy another belt that is a 1/16" smaller than your factory belt, as the MechMan pulley is smaller and you could be experiencing belt slip as well. Do you see any black powdery residue on and around the housing of the alt?

Also, others may disagree with this statement but the way I see it is like this. I average 13.6v on a typical day. If I start seeing my voltage drop to 12.0v full tilt, then it's time to start charging my batt's. If you voltage starts hitting mid 11's, time to start throwing more batt's at it and stabilize your voltage a little more. I really try to stay above 12.2v on LOOONG bass drops. If I go below, then I do what I listed above.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as you really can't hear the difference in 1 volt. Now, if you're metering, it may mean a few tenths. I would make sure you have a decent battery bank to support the regulated voltage and keep that bank charged. Also, check your belt. If you can get a tighter belt on it, do it. It's a cheap fix...

Good luck man...

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

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