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SMD VM-1 Install Help


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Red is power, black is ground, white is turn on. I have my power and ground coming directly off of my rear batteries and the turn on hooked into my remote turn on

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

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EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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I run my off of sub amp. You can use battery also.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

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Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

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Mines is hooked up to my bass amp

XS Power D5100, 2 D2700s, & 2 D975s

MechMan 220a Alt

DC 5K

Kicker 650.4

2 12 Ascendant Audio Mayhem's

Pioneer DEH-P7200HD

Rockford Fosgate 3sity.1

Build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166792-88-nissan-maxima-trunk-build/#entry2430899

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191439-lexus-is300-fi-crescendo-shca-rf-pics/

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Imo to the biggest amp or to rear batts.

Remote turn ons for hu's should only have a max of 2 accessories hooked to hit and that can even push it. You can use a relay with the remote turn on for a much better option.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Don't you have to calibrate it? I don't own one, but I think I remember seeing you have to? (don't quote me)

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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No calibration required. Have one in my car.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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NICE!! I was just wondering fellas, thanks for letting me know!

2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby

HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS

ELECTRICAL:

-Singer 230a

-Northstar gr34

-(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz

-100% Welding Cable

FRONT STAGE:
-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165

-Hertz HSK130

-Ampere Audio 125.4

SUB STAGE:

-(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's

-Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2

MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED):

-Interior & Exterior Lights LED

-Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED)

-15% Front, 5% Rear Tint

-Roof Spoiler

-20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear)

-Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!!

-Aftermarket Fog Lights

-Custom Painted Engine Covers

My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109

Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346

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Don't you have to calibrate it? I don't own one, but I think I remember seeing you have to? (don't quote me)

that's only for the cheap VM's. Your voltage is your voltage, you don't tell it what it is, it is supposed to already know (and tell you). Any Volt meter with a screw on the back is garbage.


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