Jhunt94 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Yeah mechman strongly advises against fusing on the alternator run. They said it's completely safe as long as your wires are run smartly. Fuse for your wiring, so if you're using 1/0 OFC 300a is fine. I could've swore that in my instructions from Mechman it said to fuse the charging lead. I may be mistaken, it's been over a year since I've looked at the instructions. To me it's a smart idea. If you were running power to an appliance in your house you wouldn't bypass the main breaker in the house and hook it directly to it, because of the possibility of a power surge. If the regulator goes out on the alternator not only would you have to replace/repair the alternator, but you would have to replace any other electronics or batteries it had damaged from charging too high. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 fuse it. dont be lazyHardly about being lazy, I have the fuse holder here. I emailed mechman and as snafu stated even if the voltage regulator went it wouldn't pop the 200A fuse, but the voltage would definitely increase.The only way a fuse would pop if the voltage regulator went was if the amperage exceeded 200 amps (my fuse rating). I know snafu knows his stuff but shouldn't we listen to the people who make the product? They wouldn't sell you something and then tell you to do something that could mess it up, that would be a terrible business plan. edit: it seems the sides are pretty much 50/50 on here... It's not the alt you need to be worried about its the rest of your cars electrical system, if the regulator went that means the Alt is already damaged and will need repair. But what I'm saying is even if I put a fuse and the regulator goes, the fuse won't do shit unless the amperage goes above 300a Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 What I fail to understand is why anyone would argue to NOT put a fuse in. Why anyone would want to put their investment at risk because they "felt" it wasn't necessary. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I fuse, I fuse everything that comes off of a battery + post, you will see negligible loss, if you ever get in a car accident it may save your car from going up in flames, thats the main reason I do it, not that you will save much, but hey if you get trapped inside and that 1/0 decides to go up like a Christmas tree then your gonna become a turkey dinner, I have a 250amp alt about and a 300 amp fuse that is on a 1/0 knu ofc run, then I also have a run from my alt + post to the rear going right to the my distribution for the amps in the back, which is fused back there, mainly cause I usually run a battery back there 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc31610 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Like Broke Audio said, fuse slightly higher than your alts output. Given that most of the alt to batt runs are short you aren't fusing as much for short circuit protection, you are more fusing against overcharging. I would rather replace my alt and a fuse than an alt a fuse and an ECU. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 What if my truck is onyl demanding 100a of current and the voltage spikes higher? The fuse won't pop before the voltage gets too high...maybe I'm missing something Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 fuse it. put a 60 amp in. if that blows right away put a 80, then 100 then 120 or 150 or whatever's next......lol 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 What if my truck is onyl demanding 100a of current and the voltage spikes higher? The fuse won't pop before the voltage gets too high...maybe I'm missing something So stop worrying about that. If it can't be protected then it can't be. I don't know enough about how that works to say one way or another. but why would you want a live wire without a fuse?? the other end of that wire is attached to a battery. fuse that shit man. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 fuse it. put a 60 amp in. if that blows right away put a 80, then 100 then 120 or 150 or whatever's next......lol It's a 240a alt, going to need a 300a fuse. EDIT: Is it normal for my mechman alt to faintly "click" when I rotate the pulley clockwise? The pulley is pointed towards me. Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 What if my truck is onyl demanding 100a of current and the voltage spikes higher? The fuse won't pop before the voltage gets too high...maybe I'm missing something fuse it. put a 60 amp in. if that blows right away put a 80, then 100 then 120 or 150 or whatever's next......lol It's a 240a alt, going to need a 300a fuse. EDIT: Is it normal for my mechman alt to faintly "click" when I rotate the pulley clockwise? The pulley is pointed towards me. oh, I thought you were asking. Either way you question has been answered so this thread needs to get locked before it derails for the 10th time, lol 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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