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Searched, have a pretty stupid sounding question


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This is probably a ridiculous question, but I searched and can't find an answer. I'm looking at getting a Damplifier B-stock bulk pack in the near future from Second Skin, and doing as much of my car as humanly possible. At least the hatch, spare tire well, and all four doors. What I'm primarily frustrated by is panel rattles on my interior (door panels and hatch trim on the inside all rattling at certain freqs high volume.)

The question is should I be applying the deadener to the inside of the plastic panels, or to the sheet metal/inner door structure if I'm trying to kill panel rattle? Any other suggestions besides Damplifier, I'm open to suggestion. I really want to get all these rattles in the doors and hatch under control, cause they are frustrating the shit out of me.

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2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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sheet metal is where u put deadner and if u have trim rattles find some small black screws and dont be scared to put holes in ur shit most of the time a deadner wont help trim rattle

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Build Log

1996 chevy suburban

2 zv4 15

kenwood excelon mids and tweeters

kenwood excelon deck

mevhman 370

3 batts all different

mechman avmb II

2 inch squat

33 inch muds

straight pipes

kixker zx series 4ch

sundown amps

memphis 0 gauge

soon to be fu audio c pillar wall

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I put deadener on the inside of all interior panels and then reinstalled them. Whether it did much or not I really don't know. I do not have many rattles to be honest but I am also not loud, 2 sub setup only.

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2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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I'm running comps front coaxials rear, have an 8" ported now but building a bigger enclosure for an SA12. I figure if I already have rattles now, it's gonna get worse with a bigger sub and more power (currently at 4 ohms, will run at 2 in the near future.)

Any other opinions?

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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I put deadener on the inside of all interior panels and then reinstalled them. Whether it did much or not I really don't know. I do not have many rattles to be honest but I am also not loud, 2 sub setup only.

"I'm not loud. I only have 6k and 2 15" sp4s." Someone is being a little moddest lol

Edited by DubNDodge
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'01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log
2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log

On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said:

Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.

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Damplifier and Damplifier Pro would be better suited for the metal on the doors but customers have installed it in small pieces on panels before with success.

We do offer Over Kill and Over Kill Pro to attach to ratteling door panel parts. It can be found here at http://store.secondskinaudio.com/closed-cell-foam-ccf/ there are two options for different thickness on the closed cell foam. Good Luck with your project.

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I have been chasing rattles in my GF's Equinox for months! I have used everything from spray foam to t-shirts...lol. Stop one rattle and another pops up.

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I did both. I wanted to keep the rattles and flex down as much as possible. I still have more to do when I finally finish my front doors. I'm not doing it for anything other than mass loading though.

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THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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