Second Skin Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 You can also call us anytime between 8-4 Arizona time and we can answer any of your questions: 1-800-679-8511 or email us at [email protected] Luck with your project. Quote Whether you are restoring a classic muscle car, building an audio system monster, or trying to give yourself a bit of silent luxury on your daily commute, we have a product or combination of products that will help you achieve your goals while saving money and save time. Look around our site, educate yourself and make the choice that is right for you. Over built to over perform - because user error, bad batch, and faulty install are excuses that other companies use! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBigs63' Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 What you need to do is apply damplifier to the metal to reduce flex, then use some spray adhesive to attach closed cell foam, mass loaded vinyl, or even go buy a foam mattress cover and hack it up to the back side of your plastic panels. If you get to the point that even that doesn't work you kind of just have to learn to live with it or start using alternative methods like screws and bolts and stuff through your panels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 damplifier is really only meant to be used on the sheet metal and the foam products are to be used from keeping 2 surfaces from touching or to "hold" a panel in place persay. You first need to find out the source of the noise you are trying to get rid of. If you have a system and it only rattles while thats on then turn on the system and go to the hatch area and see if you can find the rattling (might be hard in that situation but it is what it is) If it only does it while driving on a certain bad road then get someone to drive you down that road while you are in the hatch area with the music off preferably. You want to just hold your hand against whatever you think is rattling if it stops then you found the source if not try again. If you weren't able to locate the source with the panels on try with the plastic panels off, it could be the sheet metal. Just remember that nothing you do can really hurt (applying damplifier or foam products). There are certain situations that you cant do much to help but those are pretty uncommon. If you get to the point where you figured out there is a piece of plastic flexing causing the rattle and you cant really add foam to the issue then try the damp pro on the panel. Its not going to work like its made to but it will add some weight to the panel and hopefully lower the resonance freq of the panel. 2 Quote J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted September 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 damplifier is really only meant to be used on the sheet metal and the foam products are to be used from keeping 2 surfaces from touching or to "hold" a panel in place persay. You first need to find out the source of the noise you are trying to get rid of. If you have a system and it only rattles while thats on then turn on the system and go to the hatch area and see if you can find the rattling (might be hard in that situation but it is what it is) If it only does it while driving on a certain bad road then get someone to drive you down that road while you are in the hatch area with the music off preferably. You want to just hold your hand against whatever you think is rattling if it stops then you found the source if not try again. If you weren't able to locate the source with the panels on try with the plastic panels off, it could be the sheet metal. Just remember that nothing you do can really hurt (applying damplifier or foam products). There are certain situations that you cant do much to help but those are pretty uncommon. If you get to the point where you figured out there is a piece of plastic flexing causing the rattle and you cant really add foam to the issue then try the damp pro on the panel. Its not going to work like its made to but it will add some weight to the panel and hopefully lower the resonance freq of the panel. Yeah, I'm planning on a round of Damplifier through the back hatch and all four doors, can't hurt. As far as hunting down rattles in the hatch, I'll just have to seal the car up and crawl back there (easier said than done, I'm 5'11" 240 lbs, it'll be a squeeze that would make a cockroad proud.) As far as the doors, I find most of the rattle seams to be coming from around the speakers, which is probably those silly plastic 6x9 - 6.5" brackets from Scosche flexing. I'll try a line of silicone RTV to kind of glue them to the speakers/the brackets to the doors, and if that doesn't work and room allows I'll just cut a set out of 3/4" MDF and call it good. I did find the source of two of my rattles: my wife left her plastic toll tag in my passenger front door, and my daughter had dropped a pacifier into the cupholder in the passenger rear door. Pulled those out, cranked it up, no more weird rattles only at certain freqs. SMDH. 2 Quote 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc31610 Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 I believe it is a never-ending quest! My F-150 had 0 rattles when I first installed my 12. Nothing with the system has changed other than the sub loosening up and now it rattles and flexes when the wind blows! Quote My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan247 Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 another option you could try is foam weather stripping for doors, did a few back panels in my TB and it seems to work, just have to track down the rest of them now, you can get it a wally world in different sizes. http://www.duckbrand.com/products/weatherization/window-door-seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I put deadener on the inside of all interior panels and then reinstalled them. Whether it did much or not I really don't know. I do not have many rattles to be honest but I am also not loud, 2 sub setup only. "I'm not loud. I only have 6k and 2 15" sp4s." Someone is being a little moddest lol fuckin this LOL Lulz, where have I been, missed this. Well for me it seems loud but it's not as loud as others on here. Just got back from a comp from Sunday and damn....I go back to I am not loud, LOL!!!! Some stupid loud vehicles for sure and honestly for what mine is I think it's fucking loud. well it at least sounds good as hell. IMO it would be plenty for a daily system, listening to music etc.etc. Demo'ing at a comp and yea it could be louder but for music on the daily it is nice!@ 1 Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxVolume Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 second skin themselves answered, nuff said but really I just put that stuff anywhere there's rattles, be it the metal behind my door or rear deck, or just plastic pretty pieces. brand new car had a plastic trim panel (around seat belt, directly behind driver head) that would buzz like a bee hive on the highway, no bass.... couple thin strips of damp pro and made sure all screws were tight, no rattle for 6 months and counting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I know you said it was the toll tag and stuff but thing to remember that saved me a lot of money and time if you do anymore installs in the future. Sound deadner = add mass closed cell foam = quells rattles 20%-50% coverage of deadner should do you, I would use more like 20-30% depending on location like inner door skin, cover it in closed cell foam to cut down the rattles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 I know you said it was the toll tag and stuff but thing to remember that saved me a lot of money and time if you do anymore installs in the future. Sound deadner = add mass closed cell foam = quells rattles 20%-50% coverage of deadner should do you, I would use more like 20-30% depending on location like inner door skin, cover it in closed cell foam to cut down the rattles. NO, that is not what a Sound deadener is supposed to do, it's supposed to provide some structural strength to the panel and absorb vibrations instead of lowering the resonant frequency. Quote Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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