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2003 Ford Explorer, starting small, working my way up!


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So not too happy with the results of this endeavor. DEFINITELY not worth ruining the beauty of the box with the two 4"s, as at first, it actually sounded worse!!! It sounded like wind blowing on a pile of scrap metal!!! The rattling come to find out, was due to the screws on my hatch loosening a little bit. Screws are too narrow so I will be replacing them with some thicker ones tomorrow and that should certainly hold. In the mean time, I just re-tightened the smaller ones and that eradicated the rattle completely. Second issue, the air blowing sound..... When I put my ear to either of the 4" ports in it before, it would almost rupture my ear drum! Now, it just feels like a high amount of air blowing into my ear with very little sound. Sitting in the drivers seat, I can feel the air blow across me and move my shirt when the lows hit but they weren't at all loud. I moved the box around and once I got the right distance between the port and the hatch, the output was pretty much the same as before, no better :( In fact, the higher frequency bass (38-45Hz) was louder before I did the swap.

I posted a thread on here and got some good help from the one person who's solution was NOT to "go buy more subs, buy a bigger amp". Seems this whole time, I have not been accounting for sub/port displacement when tuning the boxes *duh*. So before when the sub was mounted normally, my net volume was probably 3.0 cubes or less with the 4"s and is 3.5 cubes with the sub inverted and the 8". I have been tuning to 31Hz, using my gross volume of 4.4 cubes so I have actually been tuned much higher... As of now, I am tuned at 35.5Hz. With the 4"s, I was probably somewhere around 38Hz (probably why the higher bass was louder). So lesson learned the very expensive way, figure your NET volume before tuning the box! lol. So if I would have just lengthened the 4" aeros a few inches each, I would have got my 31Hz, without ruining the box. Now, I have an 8" hole and in order to get 31Hz using 8", it needs to be 34" long, which I DO NOT have room for :/. I may make a reducer ring the same size as the circle covering the other hole, bevel and sand both, and run one, 13.5" long 6" aero port. If I work it right, I can make it look pretty nice, while getting my tuning where I want it. I think the 8" was too large anyways....

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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So not much more work to be done until all of my stuff comes, probably Monday or Tuesday. I may install the l.e.d's in the front speaker grilles, provided my switches come tomorrow like they claim... Leaving the 8" port for now and am getting closer and closer to quickly gathering the funds to get my other 15 and new amp, saying to hell with this recycled POS box!

Anyways, I need to get cookin and have everything done for competition time this spring! :) Win or lose, I am just there to have fun but I wouldn't even enter with my current setup. Would like to at least have a chance lol. Got a team of 3, one of which has the subs and the power for trunk class (two Sundown X-12's on 3k CT Sounds power). Here's a look at the logo I designed. Nothing too fancy, just enough to get the point across :)

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Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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USPS dropped off some of my goodies today! :) Might even find time to do some work....

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6' of 1/0ga OFC. for battery to alt, dist. block to cell and cell to amp. 5' of 4/0ga. OFC for my component amp. Will all be hidden in time, once the amp rack and false floor are done. Second run of 2/0 OFC should be here soon, along with the section of 2/0 OFC ground for the component amp and RCA's for component amp. Just need to get my SkyHigh 1/0 black OFC for the rest of my big 3 and grounds to and from power bank, and I will be set! :)

Also got my red l.e.d rocker switches, will switch the parking brake ground for the DVD, remote for the amp, and l.e.d's in the speaker grilles and under the seats....

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Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Decided to ditch my current box, got a custom built 4.25 cube that had two 8" ports (not sure what kind of 15 needs two 8"s lol). Box will be nice with a little modification, is already 1" MDF, double baffle, all corners 45'd and box is coated in glass. Some visual mods and one 6" port should be perfect! Also picked up some new X-overs, Phoenix Gold Pro Series 2 way's, actually better than the RF ones I had and got them for basically nothing. Will post some pics as I get more done. TONS of work to be done, no garage and highs of 38 degrees is all really slowing me down but since I have the equipment, I guess I will just deal with the cold :/

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Two 8"? Idk about that bro. Just seems like a lot off the top of my head. Also when making your port external and inverting the sub you changed the space i'd say by a lot.

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07 Hyundai Accent Build

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And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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Two 8"? Idk about that bro. Just seems like a lot off the top of my head. Also when making your port external and inverting the sub you changed the space i'd say by a lot.

That's a good point. Wonder if he would have better results running with the sub inside the box.

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Two 8"? Idk about that bro. Just seems like a lot off the top of my head. Also when making your port external and inverting the sub you changed the space i'd say by a lot.

The box originally had two 8" ports. I am covering one of the holes, as stylishly as I possibly can, lol. Going to try out an 8" port first and if that is too much still, will try a 6". I have a thread started inquiring on what size port would be optimal and it seems some say one 6", while others say one 8". The higher frequency bass sounded good with two 4", but chuffed a lot below like 35Hz and didn't have much output below 35-36Hz.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Here are the X-overs, pretty decent for no cash out of pocket!

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They are about twice the weight of the RF ones I had and look better quality. Only downfall from the RF's is these are 2 way, RF's were 3 way. This is fine for me because I only plan on running two tweets off them, the other RF tweets scream with just my head unit powering them! Now all I need for my mid bass, mids and highs are a new set of bullet tweeters (thanks to whoever stole mine), and the RF Punch Pro 8" mid bass's. Then it's all down to installing everything, in this cold ass weather!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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So everything will be pretty touch and go from here on out with work, the weather and taking care of my 3 year old lol. But here is a list of what I hope to have finished within a week...

Sub box finished and installed (bare wood for now)

New head unit ring installed, monitor video and component RCA's ran.

RF 5.25"s installed in rear doors.

Rear doors sound deadened.

ALL new power wires ran, power and ground ran for component amp (all hidden).

MB Quart 360.4 component amp installed.

X-overs installed.

Speaker wires ran to where 8's will be and to pillar tweets.

L.E.D's installed in component grilles.

If I can get all of that done in one week, I will be stoked! :) I would be happy to get half of that done in a week, lol... On a side note, where does everyone usually install their passive X-overs? I was thinking in my doors, any suggestions there?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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The rest of my gear got delivered today, I guess this means I need to get busy!

Amp, MB Quart Onyx 80.4. MUCH better build quality than expected, very heavy and look's like a really nice amp for what I paid. Now lets see if it sounds as good as it looks....

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Should power what I have very nicely, while drawing little power when compared to the larger 4 channels.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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