philrab Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I know this sounds nuts, but hear me out: I have a Kenwood X500-1 amp in my car, a spare subwoofer (MTX road thunder 8", dual 4 ohm coils) and want to play around with designing and building my own T-line more for the experience than anything. I REALLY don't want to run this sub at a 2 ohm load since the sub is only rated for 100-200 watts, and 500 watts is almost sure to smoke the poor little thing. I'm especially thinking this since conventional wisdom is that a sub in a T-line on it's rated power tends to bottom out. What I'm thinking is, if I wire the coils in parallel for an 8ohm load, I should be well under the 300 watts @4 ohms the amp is rated for, probably just about right for what I have in mind. The question is, is it going to frag anything on this amp if I feed it an 8 ohm load instead of 4 or 2 like usual? I've never tried it, haven't seen or heard of anyone trying it, don't want to burn down my equipment. I'm just testing the waters to see if this is even feasible, since I have some spare wood and a spare sub. I guess push come to shove I could just run the sub at 2 ohms and turn down the sub level A LOT to keep from cooking or bottoming the sub out. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yurvalentine Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 It'll be perfectly fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afficionado Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 absolutely fine, it will actually be a lot easier on all of your equipment. If you have any questions relating to nutrition, lifting, or health in general, feel free to give me a PM and I will give you straight forward advice with no BS involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Awesome, thanks guys for not flaming the shit out of me for such an off the wall question. Now, time to do lots of reading up on T-lines. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoenixman Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Post some pics of the box after you get it done so we can see the good work. Let us know how it sounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Post some pics of the box after you get it done so we can see the good work. Let us know how it sounds I'll be taking my time with this one. I have pics of the two ported enclosures I designed and built (first time designing my own, came out really good) in my build thread, definitely got the construction part of building enclosures down solid (did woodworking since I was a kid). The design work of a T-line I need to learn, and run through till I'm comfortable with it. Then a sketchup model. Then move to MDF. Just guessing at 8 ohms this sub will pull down roughly half what it does at 4 ohms would put me at 150 watts rms, about 3/4 the RMS the sub is rated for. If it sounds really musical and has good output, next step will be to step up to something like an SA10 with twin 4 ohm coils so I can wake that amp back up. We'll see how it turns out. I tend to think that if you're designing and building enclosures, the worst thing you can do is stand still. I want to keep pushing myself, more intricate designs and more precise enclosures, just keep refining my skills. I was teetering on building a 4th order bandpass or a 6th, but a T-line is something that little bit less commong that would make for a nice experiment and demonstration. Also figuring if it sounds good, it'll end up getting throw on a little Home AV amp and see how it does as part of the garage sound system. Never know if I don't try it out. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I know this sounds nuts, but hear me out: I have a Kenwood X500-1 amp in my car, a spare subwoofer (MTX road thunder 8", dual 4 ohm coils) and want to play around with designing and building my own T-line more for the experience than anything. I REALLY don't want to run this sub at a 2 ohm load since the sub is only rated for 100-200 watts, and 500 watts is almost sure to smoke the poor little thing. I'm especially thinking this since conventional wisdom is that a sub in a T-line on it's rated power tends to bottom out. What I'm thinking is, if I wire the coils in parallel SERIES for an 8ohm load, I should be well under the 300 watts @4 ohms the amp is rated for, probably just about right for what I have in mind. The question is, is it going to frag anything on this amp if I feed it an 8 ohm load instead of 4 or 2 like usual? I've never tried it, haven't seen or heard of anyone trying it, don't want to burn down my equipment. I'm just testing the waters to see if this is even feasible, since I have some spare wood and a spare sub. I guess push come to shove I could just run the sub at 2 ohms and turn down the sub level A LOT to keep from cooking or bottoming the sub out. See above. Raising the impedance on an amplifier is always fine. Extrapolate that a little bit for a thought experiment: Your amp is fine with no speakers connected, right? (just air). That air will have an impedance in the high MEGA ohm range, maybe even GIGA ohms. So therefore the amp should be fine between its rated impedance and the mega-ohm range of nothing connected. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 ^^^ Thanks Wick. Didn't seam like it would hurt anything, but I second guess myself. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Wicks as usual making everything super simple. I feel like an idiot now 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 I know this sounds nuts, but hear me out: I have a Kenwood X500-1 amp in my car, a spare subwoofer (MTX road thunder 8", dual 4 ohm coils) and want to play around with designing and building my own T-line more for the experience than anything. I REALLY don't want to run this sub at a 2 ohm load since the sub is only rated for 100-200 watts, and 500 watts is almost sure to smoke the poor little thing. I'm especially thinking this since conventional wisdom is that a sub in a T-line on it's rated power tends to bottom out. What I'm thinking is, if I wire the coils in parallel SERIES for an 8ohm load, I should be well under the 300 watts @4 ohms the amp is rated for, probably just about right for what I have in mind. The question is, is it going to frag anything on this amp if I feed it an 8 ohm load instead of 4 or 2 like usual? I've never tried it, haven't seen or heard of anyone trying it, don't want to burn down my equipment. I'm just testing the waters to see if this is even feasible, since I have some spare wood and a spare sub. I guess push come to shove I could just run the sub at 2 ohms and turn down the sub level A LOT to keep from cooking or bottoming the sub out. See above.Raising the impedance on an amplifier is always fine. Extrapolate that a little bit for a thought experiment: Your amp is fine with no speakers connected, right? (just air). That air will have an impedance in the high MEGA ohm range, maybe even GIGA ohms. So therefore the amp should be fine between its rated impedance and the mega-ohm range of nothing connected. Always wire to 1.21 jigga ohms just to be safe. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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