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Corsa B daily build with single 12" Ground Zero - 146.2 @ 36hz

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A little word of me - I am a 19-year-old basshead from Bulgaria. I've been following SMD for at least 2 or 3 years, but I decided to register last year. My main hobby is car audio, but i like computers, electronics and other stuff. I'm studying International Economic Relations at the moment - it's my first year at university.

I work on the car whenever I can save money for it, so it's a pretty slow build. Nothing fancy, but I have plans for making things a lot better when I have the time and money. I also like to do things by myself - I enjoy the process of learning new things along the way.

The car itself is a 3-door Opel Corsa B 97' hatchback with 1.0, 3-cylinder engine - yeah, I know, pretty slow :D

It has a 55 amp alternator and a 44ah Varta Blue battery - planning on upgrading them soon (along with many other stuff).

The headunit is Pioneer deh-6900IB that I got for cheap. I didn't have the money for an active HU, but i definitely want to buy one soon - tired of amp and passive crossover restrictions...

I have two amps - one 4 channel for my front stage and GZHA 1.1800dxii for the sub.

For the front I use SB acoustics tweeters - mounted in fiberglass spheres on the A-pillars (pictures later) ran through the 4-channel amp with DIY passive crossovers.

I have PHD 6.5" midbass/midwoofers (pretty old model) but haven't hooked them up yet. I have bought everything needed for making a 0,3-0,4 cu.ft. (around 10 litres) fiberglass sealed enclosures in the doors, but i will deal with them after the winter.

Temporarily I use the OEM front door speakers that have no midbass at all, but deliver good midrange. The lack of midbass is mainly due to the lack of deadening (again, money issue). I have 2 layers of cheap bitumen deadener on the inside of one of the doors, but haven't sealed the holes on the other sheet. I also have 4 layers of deadener on the hatch door and have tightened it down, but I continue to break the back wiper (maybe because i use cheap ones), so I have to figure something out for the flex.

The subwoofer I use is a Ground Zero GZRW 30spl Extreme. I have tested out many enclosures, but right now it is in a 83 liter (2,93 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 33hz. I plan on cutting the port to increase the tune to 35hz and after the winter to build a 100 liter (3,5 cu.ft.) tuned to 34-36hz.

When I bought the woofer it was damaged (coil had bottomed out) and it made screachy noises at higher xmax. That's why I couldn't reach its potential - I was scared not to damage it more. Last week I got a fresh recone on it, so now it plays A LOT better - no more noises and power restrictions :D

Last month I was at my first competition, getting 2nd place in the 12" cattegory (they take into account scores and instalation quality/creativity).

Meter on dash, doors closed, car NOT running - only on battery power (44ah lead acid battery) on their test song - 142 @ 44hz.

Same thing with doors open - 141,7 @ 40hz.

Meter on dash again, driver's door open, car running, my music - 143,5 @ 41hz.

The scores were with the damaged woofer and a 71 liter (2,5 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 35hz.

Didn't have the opportunity to test scores on different frequencies or to find my peak.

Now with the repaired woofer, with a new battery and good deadening I want to achieve 145 @ 38-42hz. Hopefully I would be able to do it after a couple of months.

I'll post the pics I have in the next post and I will update the topic whenever I have something going on.

Any input is appreciated!

Edited by daimer

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Looking forward to seeing pictures. How is the audio scene in Bulgaria? I haven't heard of a lot of people with builds from there so it should be interesting to see your car and equipment that you are using.

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The audio community here is getting bigger and bigger with some impressive projects being build every year. Unfortunately, we don't have many brands to choose from, so the most common one for loud projects is Ground Zero. Many people here would kill for some Sundown, DC, SQ and many other brands that you have in the States...

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Tuned in for pics

There is a guy named Adrian on another US car audio forum, with some nice builds too : nothing huge though.

Edited by notorious97200

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Here is the hatch:




For wiring I have 2 awg welding cable for the sub amp and 7 awg for the 4-channel. I have also ran direct 11 awg cables to the HU. Planning on doing the big 3 when I change the alternator.

I have ran the power cables through the passenger side, speaker cables through both sides and RCA's on the floor near the center console.






Fuses are at the back of the battery, - 60amp for the 4 channel, 150amp for the sub amp (I have another one near the amp, because it doesn't have an integrated one) and 20amp for the HU - every one is in a waterproof holder.



Edited by daimer
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The running of the RCA's was a challenge, because they have a pretty big connector. I had to cut plastic behind the HU in order to fit them. Problem was, behind the HU is my ventilation chamber. So I made a seal with fiberglass, painted it black and glued it with CA and hot glue. I don't have pictures of the "cap", but you can see how much I had to cut.







Here are the RCA's, I made them using rg-58/u coaxial cable and some neat connectors:


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Making of the tweeter pods:











I LOVE the tweeters - they play loud and clear. Before I had them installed, I could barely hear vocals when the bass hit. Now the scene is up front and the vocals are much much better! The system is balanced now - the bass isn't overpowering, it's quite the opposite :D

Can't wait to put the PHD mids and run everything active! The tweeters are crossed at around 4-5khz 12db/oct. I want to try a lower cut but with 18 or 24 db slope (when I buy an active-capable HU and get rid of the passive crossovers).

And here are the mids:


Their midrange is a bit laid back and they are not very sensitive, but I can't complain - got them for like 25$ :D

Edited by daimer
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I'm on the left. Competing against a GZNW 15x with two passive radiators on more than twice the power. My score is with a damaged woofer.


And the sub condition before the recone:








I guess this sub has bottomed out several times with its previous owner, because a 2 inch piece of wire on one of the coils was missing - it had been cut by the smashed former. So yes, I guess I made the score with half a woofer :D No wonder I didn't have much voltage drop...

Now with the repaired woofer things are much better - no noises, I can run more power to it and use its full potential. Running the amp at 1 ohm, the least voltage I have seen is 11,9 with car idling. That's on a 38hz tone for 30 seconds. On music I don't see anything below 12,4. Which is definitely not bad for my electrical.

May post a video or two on some door flex and papertrick.

Edited by daimer

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And some videos. My camera has a crappy mic - sorry for the sound.

Edited by daimer

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So tomorrow I'll be doing some testing with the 33hz-tuned box. I hope I get enough testing time. If everything goes well, I'll post the results.

I decided not to modify the current box any more and to build another one with interchangeable ports, but I'm not sure when will I have enough free time.

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