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Voltage jumping all over....


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Specs are in my sig. When my bass hits at full tilt or a little below (any frequency), my voltage meter jumps around constantly, never staying at one reading for enough time to even read the numbers. This only happens when the bass hits. Heater, A/C, headlights, etc. all use a steady amount of voltage. I thought this was normal, but my friends does not do it nearly this bad. The meter is an XScorpion, I have seen these meters in several setups and have never seen one jump around this much. Someone said it had something to do with the amps unregulated power supply maybe? I seem to be maintaining around 13.8v as far as I can see, never dips into the 12's. Any ideas anyone? If necessary, I can probably post a video tomorrow.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Have checked ur voltage with a multimeter. If I where u I would invest in a better volt meter like a stinger or even better a sms vm

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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Have checked ur voltage with a multimeter. If I where u I would invest in a better volt meter like a stinger or even better a sms vm

stinger is shit.. what is sms vm?

get a smd vm-1

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Have checked ur voltage with a multimeter. If I where u I would invest in a better volt meter like a stinger or even better a sms vm

stinger is shit.. what is sms vm?

get a smd vm-1

$80 for a voltage meter is a tad crazy, lol. I have seen a lot of cheapo meters, even cheaper than this one read much more steadily, which leads me to believe something else is wrong.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Have checked ur voltage with a multimeter. If I where u I would invest in a better volt meter like a stinger or even better a sms vm

Not in this vehicle yet but such an obvious place to start, not sure how I didn't think of that lol. Thanks.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Have checked ur voltage with a multimeter. If I where u I would invest in a better volt meter like a stinger or even better a sms vm

stinger is shit.. what is sms vm?

get a smd vm-1

$80 for a voltage meter is a tad crazy, lol. I have seen a lot of cheapo meters, even cheaper than this one read much more steadily, which leads me to believe something else is wrong.

your really have no idea how electrical and volt meters work.. a stable meter(slow) is not good for you.. you want one the gives you real time voltage reading.. when you get those cheapo meters $15 (stinger) you are not seeing the actual voltage. its been tested many times.. the stinger and like meters will read 13.4 when you really dropping below that.. you also have to calibrate some and that is not accurate most the time.. the best way to cure unstable voltage is getting better alternator that supports the amp draw.better batteries and better wire.. no mater what voltage meter you get you will still have a shitty electrical.

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those hifonics amps are power hungry and most likely you are clipping it

one way i know you have shitty electrical.. (not enough)

you never said the name of the battery you have upfront. the kinetik battery you have is not enough for the rear. for that amp you need the hc1800 or even the hc2000. that aftermarket 130a alternator is a joke.. many stock alts do that you need a 200a to handle the cars needs and your aftermarket equipment

if i was you i would invest on a better (bigger) battery and a name brand alternator together with the front no name battery.. a volt meter is not going to solve your problem

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those hifonics amps are power hungry and most likely you are clipping it

one way i know you have shitty electrical.. (not enough)

you never said the name of the battery you have upfront. the kinetik battery you have is not enough for the rear. for that amp you need the hc1800 or even the hc2000. that aftermarket 130a alternator is a joke.. many stock alts do that you need a 200a to handle the cars needs and your aftermarket equipment

if i was you i would invest on a better (bigger) battery and a name brand alternator together with the front no name battery.. a volt meter is not going to solve your problem

I learned about amp hours and realized the HC600 is only 20Ah, which is not even close to enough. The battery up front is an off brand (can't recall the name), and don't have an amp hours rating on the label. Alternator is just a stock replacement, was the more expensive one but no Singer in any means. I do plan to upgrade all of this very soon but is this the actual cause of the meter jumping around so much? Also, once I get the new alternator/more batteries, will the cheaper voltage meter suffice? I have already flush mounted it into my dash and will end up with a hole if I remove it.... Also, it is not clipping, gains were set last week by a local car audio dealer, using an O-scope.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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The VM-1 does look nice, I just have so many other things (like batteries and an alternator) that my budget needs to be directed towards. If the meter I have cannot read correct voltage, I will just build the DMM into the vehicle, it was cheaper than the VM-1 lol

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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