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Sub peaking MUCH higher than tuning frequency....


AstoSoup

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So I am trying to get all of this figured out before I go out and get a new amp, another sub and more batteries. Steve and the guys solved my voltage meter problem, now I have a seperate problem of my sub peaking WAY over the boxes tuning frequency. The vehicle is a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS, system specs are in my sig. The box is tuned at 31.5Hz, 4.2 cubes, yet the bass peaks at 40-45Hz. At anything lower than say 39Hz, the output drops significantly, almost cancelling out completely between 35-37 and picking up a little under 34ish. Is this due to the vehicles high resonant frequency? That is just my guess as to what the problem is, as the Malibu used to hit MUCH lower with the one 12 in it. I would like lower bass and do not want to build a new box until I can figure out how to achieve this. The subs FS is around 23Hz, would I have to tune lower, like 27Hz to see optimal output at 30-32Hz? Or am I missing something completely here?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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You will peak higher.. depends on car.

Im tuned to 33, and peak at 40.

Can I do anything with the box tuning to peak at say, 34Hz and below? Or is the vehicle just holding me back from the lower frequencies?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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put a plug in the port/ make the port longer or smaller.

1997 subaru legacy outback

Four 15's in a almost wall

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp

Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets
Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass

Optima Yellow top batteries
270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) 
Lots of Second Skin

 

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Are you sure the box is designed correctly?

What are the dimensions, and how long is that 6" port?

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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put a plug in the port/ make the port longer or smaller.

Outer flare is removable, so making the aero longer and tuning lower won't be a problem at all. Will this give me better output at lower frequencies? Easy enough fix if so...

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Are you sure the box is designed correctly?

What are the dimensions, and how long is that 6" port?

16"H, 18"D, 32"W, 6" aero, 15" before inner flare, around 14" after flare. Sub up, port towards rear of vehicle...

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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4.22 is your gross volume, but you should still have 3.75+ and tuned to 33ish.

Have you metered, or just going by ear??

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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4.22 is your gross volume, but you should still have 3.75+ and tuned to 33ish.

Have you metered, or just going by ear??

By ear but the difference is quite noticeable... I go by what the 12 sounded like in the car, tuned at the same frequency. Hit MUCH lower, even with the subs Fs being higher. Leads me to believe it's the vehicle messing with the frequencies but not sure...

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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I'm still learning on box design and not an expert by any means but

1. The direction of port and subs

2. Material used

3. Bracing

4. And placement of port and sub ( making sure the sub can't unload in the port or something.

Are all things that can greatly affect the outcome of the box.

So pics would/could help

As for the way it sou d in a car compared to a suv is a big difference. Different cabin gains, different resonant freq, and all together different results. If using different sub(s) and box compared to the car then your comparing 2 completely different things.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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