AstoSoup Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Sorry to go off topic but figured it would save making a new thread and it's related lol. I just was wondering, how many in line fuses should there be total, big 3 and runs to rear? I have my Big 3 done in 1/0 OFC and have two runs of 2ga. OFC to rear. I only have a 150a fuse link in each run of 2ga., none in the big 3... Is this ok? Never really dawned on me until I read this post, sorry in advance if I wasn't supposed to post this here. It's all good man. But every positive wire touching the battery should be fused including from alt to battery. And obviously all runs of pos to the rear. Ok thanks. Should be easy enough to add a fuse link quick... Also, how big does each of these fuses need to be? I know I can both under and over fuse, if I have two in the runs to rear and one in the alternator line, with a 130a alternator and 3k RMS, what would be proper fuse sizes? Sorry, just getting into SPL and never have needed so much power lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmoxley1 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Sorry to go off topic but figured it would save making a new thread and it's related lol. I just was wondering, how many in line fuses should there be total, big 3 and runs to rear? I have my Big 3 done in 1/0 OFC and have two runs of 2ga. OFC to rear. I only have a 150a fuse link in each run of 2ga., none in the big 3... Is this ok? Never really dawned on me until I read this post, sorry in advance if I wasn't supposed to post this here.It's all good man. But every positive wire touching the battery should be fused including from alt to battery. And obviously all runs of pos to the rear. Ok thanks. Should be easy enough to add a fuse link quick... Also, how big does each of these fuses need to be? I know I can both under and over fuse, if I have two in the runs to rear and one in the alternator line, with a 130a alternator and 3k RMS, what would be proper fuse sizes? Sorry, just getting into SPL and never have needed so much power lol Well the alternator fuse should be at what the alternator is rated at. So as close to 130 as you can get. As for the two runs to the back you can fuse to the max amp rating for that wire. I think most 2 gauge is good for about 200 amps but don't quote me on that one. But if you alternator is only putting out about 130 then I hope you have a few batteries because 3k RMS is gonna require some power. Takes power to make power. Just don't want you to try and get 3k from an amp and kill it with low voltage. 1998 chevy blazer 4 door stock alt 105a Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3 Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's) Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash sae 50.4 for mids and highs SMD OM-1 on the subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 No reason to fuse those runs any higher than what your alt can put out. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmoxley1 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 ^^^ this guy knows more than I do I'm sure so anything he says listen. I'm still learning every day so if you see any of the more knowledgeable guys giving input take notes! 1998 chevy blazer 4 door stock alt 105a Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3 Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's) Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash sae 50.4 for mids and highs SMD OM-1 on the subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 OP, you can't run 3k on a 130 amp alt in a 12 volt system. You won't get 3000 watts. That's also the least of your worries at that point. Watts = volts x amperage. Let's say your 130A alt puts out 130A all the time, even when it's hot and at idle, not realistic just trying to share something. Let's even say it does that and charges at 15V. Yeah, I know..... Take 15 x 130 and if my math is correct that's 1950 right? Seriously, check my math. That's also pretending that the alternator doesn't have to support anything else other than the system, and you have no voltage drop etc.... Even with a bank of batteries, they do nothing for you until your alternator can't support the load and voltage starts to drop. Son of a bitch. I typed all that then realized that astosoup isn't the op. He thread jacked and the op is answering his questions. My apologies gmoxley1 Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 OP, you can't run 3k on a 130 amp alt in a 12 volt system. You won't get 3000 watts. That's also the least of your worries at that point. Watts = volts x amperage. Let's say your 130A alt puts out 130A all the time, even when it's hot and at idle, not realistic just trying to share something. Let's even say it does that and charges at 15V. Yeah, I know..... Take 15 x 130 and if my math is correct that's 1950 right? Seriously, check my math. That's also pretending that the alternator doesn't have to support anything else other than the system, and you have no voltage drop etc.... Even with a bank of batteries, they do nothing for you until your alternator can't support the load and voltage starts to drop. Son of a bitch. I typed all that then realized that astosoup isn't the op. He thread jacked and the op is answering his questions. My apologies gmoxley1 I realize this, I actually just posted a thread about AGM batteries, going with two 75Ah AGM's in the rear bank, Yellow Top under the hood and a 270A DC Power alternator that I am getting a great deal on used! Was just curious as to how many of what size fuses I should put where, so I chimed in.... Seems 300a of fusing, (150a per run) is a little much, but does match the max wire amperage. This is why I am getting all of this squared away now, so my electrical is up to the task when the 3k comes Currently running 1700RMS @1ohm, just one Kinitek HC600 20Ah in the rear and my voltage stays around 14 at full tilt, once in a while dropping to 13.8. This is with no lights/blower on.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 OP, you can't run 3k on a 130 amp alt in a 12 volt system. You won't get 3000 watts. That's also the least of your worries at that point. Watts = volts x amperage. Let's say your 130A alt puts out 130A all the time, even when it's hot and at idle, not realistic just trying to share something. Let's even say it does that and charges at 15V. Yeah, I know..... Take 15 x 130 and if my math is correct that's 1950 right? Seriously, check my math. That's also pretending that the alternator doesn't have to support anything else other than the system, and you have no voltage drop etc.... Even with a bank of batteries, they do nothing for you until your alternator can't support the load and voltage starts to drop. Son of a bitch. I typed all that then realized that astosoup isn't the op. He thread jacked and the op is answering his questions. My apologies gmoxley1 I realize this, I actually just posted a thread about AGM batteries, going with two 75Ah AGM's in the rear bank, Yellow Top under the hood and a 270A DC Power alternator that I am getting a great deal on used! Was just curious as to how many of what size fuses I should put where, so I chimed in.... Seems 300a of fusing, (150a per run) is a little much, but does match the max wire amperage. This is why I am getting all of this squared away now, so my electrical is up to the task when the 3k comes Currently running 1700RMS @1ohm, just one Kinitek HC600 20Ah in the rear and my voltage stays around 14 at full tilt, once in a while dropping to 13.8. This is with no lights/blower on.... Start your own thread or do more research to find all the answers you need. Typically you would want to run the smallest fuse you can your amp is not likely to pull a constant 300 amps during daily use. That being said I wouldn't fuse your wires to their max rating because fuses tend to be able to take more than they are rated for for short periods of time, I'd start with two 100 amp fuses and if the blow go to 110 or 120 amp fuses. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 OP, you can't run 3k on a 130 amp alt in a 12 volt system. You won't get 3000 watts. That's also the least of your worries at that point. Watts = volts x amperage. Let's say your 130A alt puts out 130A all the time, even when it's hot and at idle, not realistic just trying to share something. Let's even say it does that and charges at 15V. Yeah, I know..... Take 15 x 130 and if my math is correct that's 1950 right? Seriously, check my math. That's also pretending that the alternator doesn't have to support anything else other than the system, and you have no voltage drop etc.... Even with a bank of batteries, they do nothing for you until your alternator can't support the load and voltage starts to drop. Son of a bitch. I typed all that then realized that astosoup isn't the op. He thread jacked and the op is answering his questions. My apologies gmoxley1 I realize this, I actually just posted a thread about AGM batteries, going with two 75Ah AGM's in the rear bank, Yellow Top under the hood and a 270A DC Power alternator that I am getting a great deal on used! Was just curious as to how many of what size fuses I should put where, so I chimed in.... Seems 300a of fusing, (150a per run) is a little much, but does match the max wire amperage. This is why I am getting all of this squared away now, so my electrical is up to the task when the 3k comes Currently running 1700RMS @1ohm, just one Kinitek HC600 20Ah in the rear and my voltage stays around 14 at full tilt, once in a while dropping to 13.8. This is with no lights/blower on.... Start your own thread or do more research to find all the answers you need. Typically you would want to run the smallest fuse you can your amp is not likely to pull a constant 300 amps during daily use. That being said I wouldn't fuse your wires to their max rating because fuses tend to be able to take more than they are rated for for short periods of time, I'd start with two 100 amp fuses and if the blow go to 110 or 120 amp fuses. Easier on the servers posting on this one, lol. But anyways, I was also thinking two 100's should be better so will give them a try. I would rather replace a fuse because the amperage was too low, than replace my $450 amp I just ordered! Thanks for the help everyone! I think I have my electrical system squared away, after I put in the work of course! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmoxley1 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 OP, you can't run 3k on a 130 amp alt in a 12 volt system. You won't get 3000 watts. That's also the least of your worries at that point. Watts = volts x amperage. Let's say your 130A alt puts out 130A all the time, even when it's hot and at idle, not realistic just trying to share something. Let's even say it does that and charges at 15V. Yeah, I know..... Take 15 x 130 and if my math is correct that's 1950 right? Seriously, check my math. That's also pretending that the alternator doesn't have to support anything else other than the system, and you have no voltage drop etc.... Even with a bank of batteries, they do nothing for you until your alternator can't support the load and voltage starts to drop. Son of a bitch. I typed all that then realized that astosoup isn't the op. He thread jacked and the op is answering his questions. My apologies gmoxley1 It's all good man I knew who you were talking to haha. And I agree on the post you made as well. 1998 chevy blazer 4 door stock alt 105a Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3 Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's) Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash sae 50.4 for mids and highs SMD OM-1 on the subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dereileak Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 order some wire from this place: http://www.electronbeam.com/index.html I got 2/0 from them, enough for 3 runs, this stuff is rediculous, compared to my 1/0 knu ofc it makes it look small, the 1/0 would be more then enough, but I got 2/0 for around $2.12ft, weighs 1/2 per foot, the copper is some of the highest quality, you cant go wrong, then order copper lugs from delcity, they are like 30 cents a piece 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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