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Does AGM battery brand really matter?


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So I am upgrading from my small, Kinitek HC600 20Ah battery, to a 150Ah rear bank. Was planning on running two, 75Ah AGM's, joined with an aluminum bus bar (copper if my budget permits). I am looking at the AGM batteries on eBay, and see a HUGE price difference between XSPower/Kinitek and the UPG, MightyMax or other cheaper batteries. Is there any REAL performance/durability difference in brand name batteries, or are amp hours, amp hours? These are the two I have been comparing, the XSPower D6500, 75Ah AGM. And the MightyMax ML-75, 75Ah AGM. I mean, to my knowledge, which is limited when it comes to battery banks, they seem to be the same thing. Or is there something beyond Ah I am not taking into account?

Links to both.

MightyMax

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mighty-Max-ML75-12-12V-75Ah-Battery-Replaces-Braun-AGM1265T-/380994194240?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item58b5060b40

XSPower

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XS-Power-D6500-Deep-Cycle-12-Volt-12V-AGM-Power-Cell-Battery-3900-amps-75-AH-/271420464498?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f31eb9d72&vxp=mtr

Thanks!

PS: Will be running a Banda ICE 2.5k @2ohms for subs and an MBQuart Onyx 360.4 for mid/highs. Using stock replacement 130a alternator for now, with a large starting battery under the hood (not deep cycle) and Big 3 in 1/0 OFC.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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The people who paid 3X the money for expensive batteries will tell you there's a difference. IMO your main concern should be warranty and ease of claiming on warranty. For example, if a Sears Platinum Die Hard goes bad in 4 years, you just bring it in at any Sears in the country and they hand you a new one. Having to mail out a battery to claim on a warranty is unappealing to me.

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The people who paid 3X the money for expensive batteries will tell you there's a difference. IMO your main concern should be warranty and ease of claiming on warranty. For example, if a Sears Platinum Die Hard goes bad in 4 years, you just bring it in at any Sears in the country and they hand you a new one. Having to mail out a battery to claim on a warranty is unappealing to me.

This one in particular has a 1 year warranty against defects or failure, which does not seem that long. The seller however, offers a 3 year additional warranty, no questions asked replacement for $20. So for $155 I could have the battery with a 4 year hassle free warranty, based in the U.S. Sounds good to me, as long as I'm not missing something here... Just seems too good to be true lol

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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The people who paid 3X the money for expensive batteries will tell you there's a difference. IMO your main concern should be warranty and ease of claiming on warranty. For example, if a Sears Platinum Die Hard goes bad in 4 years, you just bring it in at any Sears in the country and they hand you a new one. Having to mail out a battery to claim on a warranty is unappealing to me.

This one in particular has a 1 year warranty against defects or failure, which does not seem that long. The seller however, offers a 3 year additional warranty, no questions asked replacement for $20. So for $155 I could have the battery with a 4 year hassle free warranty, based in the U.S. Sounds good to me, as long as I'm not missing something here... Just seems too good to be true lol

OK, so it dies in 2.5 years it'll cost you 70$ to ship it back to him. Will he eat shipping on the replacement? Will he be around in 3 years?

Sorry but unless I'm buying refurbs, or 6 month old pulled from an office building at really cheap I'm not going to take a chance with a battery where I can't just walk in to a brick and mortar store and return it if it dies prematurely.

Oh, and O'reiley's parts store has a platinum series which is made by Penn. I'm having good luck with mine and they were around 155$ forr 75AH size. Can't vouch for their warranty as I haven't tried, but I can definitely vouch for the Sears Platinum performance and ease of warranty.

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The people who paid 3X the money for expensive batteries will tell you there's a difference. IMO your main concern should be warranty and ease of claiming on warranty. For example, if a Sears Platinum Die Hard goes bad in 4 years, you just bring it in at any Sears in the country and they hand you a new one. Having to mail out a battery to claim on a warranty is unappealing to me.

This one in particular has a 1 year warranty against defects or failure, which does not seem that long. The seller however, offers a 3 year additional warranty, no questions asked replacement for $20. So for $155 I could have the battery with a 4 year hassle free warranty, based in the U.S. Sounds good to me, as long as I'm not missing something here... Just seems too good to be true lol

OK, so it dies in 2.5 years it'll cost you 70$ to ship it back to him. Will he eat shipping on the replacement? Will he be around in 3 years?

Sorry but unless I'm buying refurbs, or 6 month old pulled from an office building at really cheap I'm not going to take a chance with a battery where I can't just walk in to a brick and mortar store and return it if it dies prematurely.

Oh, and O'reiley's parts store has a platinum series which is made by Penn. I'm having good luck with mine and they were around 155$ forr 75AH size. Can't vouch for their warranty as I haven't tried, but I can definitely vouch for the Sears Platinum performance and ease of warranty.

I will have to look into how credible the seller and company is first.... $155 for a name brand 75Ah isn't bad at all, these can be bought at Sears? Never heard of O'Reillys, I am from upstate NY. Just seems crazy to spend $329 on an XSPower and have it be the same damn battery!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Coming from buying high end batteries (I.E. XS Power). I am now gonna be buying generic batteries from now on (Deka, etc.). The extra cost (2,3,4x) the amount isn't justifiable and the warranty is a TOTAL joke anyways. These companies will always make it your fault one way or another unless you are someone with high status.



Just go with cheap battereries and save yourself the headache, TRUST ME.


2011 Ford Ranger Sport 4.0 v6

2 sundown audio prototype nsv4 15s

crossfire 4k wired to 0.4 ohm

15 banks of maxwell 3.0 caps @ 18v

triple alts (x2 us alt 250's, x1 singer 320)

153 at 23hz

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Oreilly's Super Start AGM

Autozone Duralast Platinum

Sams Energizer AGM

Sears Diehard Platinum

any of them will net you fine, have incredible warranties and are local

xs power, northstar, and all those car audio batteries work damn fine aswell, but for price to performance, you can get on par quality cheaper and locally.

I'd really look into Juicebox battery too. Online brand, but severely slept on

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That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

we've all been doing it wrong...... :P

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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