lane0914 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Hello I just recently upgraded my sub setup from (2) Memphis SVC SR12s to (1) Sundown Audio SA-12 4ohm DVC sub. I was running the Alpine mrx-m55 to the memphis subs and burnt up the voice coils pretty good because they are only 250w rms subs. I am wondering if it's safe to run the alpine amp at 70-75% gain at 2ohms to the sundown to get close to the rms rating of 600 watts? Stock electrical setup at the moment with 8 gauge going to amp. (I know I know that is way to small wire but it's fused at 50 amps.) I am planning on buying a crescendo symphony 1500.1 and running the correct wire and possibly a battry in the trunk but in the meantime would I be fine running the amp at that level? Also can maybe someone help me out with rms ratings on amps. Do they make there advertised rms ratings at half gain (nominal), 70% or full gain? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 That's not how gain works. Its not a volume or power knob. Its for matching the input signal voltage coming into your amp with how much power it can cleanly put out. You could clip your amp and fry your subs with the gain turned all the way down if your input signal was strong enough, conversely you could hardly get any power out of your amp with the gain turned all the way up if your input signal was really low. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Yep. It's time for you to do a search on the term "how to set gain properly". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nCOMP1337 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 It would be best to use a proper tool to measure for clipping when setting the gain for your amp. This would either be a dd1 or an ohmeter. However some people use the multimeter/math equation way if its all they got. My headunit had 5v preouts and in order to reach maximum gain before clipping, I literally just barely turned the gain setting. My amp performed at the rated rms or close to it before impedance rise of course. It would help if you tell us what headunit you are using and its preout voltage and what tools you have if any to help you set the gain. It is frowned upon to use your ear to set the gain, just fair warning there. The amps rating is set so that it puts out that rating based on the impedance it is presented with, regardless of the gain setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 yes but you don't want too. you cant just guess at were a gain should be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 yes but you don't want too. you cant just guess at were a gain should be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf2 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/dmmgain.html That's all I gotta say. I get it, everyone loves the DD1 here (seeing as it's a good simple product, and you're on his site) But I can tell you that someone who's thinking of cranking his gains to match his sub, isn't gonna want to dump that much dough on it (for his minimal use, probably lower budget, etc) Get a multimeter and get calculating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 A DMM is just about as good as guessing. Use a proper tool. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/dmmgain.html That's all I gotta say. I get it, everyone loves the DD1 here (seeing as it's a good simple product, and you're on his site) But I can tell you that someone who's thinking of cranking his gains to match his sub, isn't gonna want to dump that much dough on it (for his minimal use, probably lower budget, etc) Get a multimeter and get calculating! cheaper than an o-scope. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRON Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/dmmgain.html So this asshole who did that write up apparently thinks you can get a true RMS multimeter for $15? Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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