AstoSoup Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 So I have decided to go with a 10 cube net volume (after sub displacement) box, subs up, ports back in my '03 Explorer. What I am trying to figure out, is port area and what will give me the best low end frequencies. I was originally going to use two, 6" aero ports, tuned at around 30Hz. This would be around 56 sq. in. of port area. This http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 calculator says for two of my subs, 84 sq. in. of port area is the minimum recommended. Three, 6" aeros would be exactly 84 sq. in. of port, looking like my best option. With the one sub however, it says my minimum port area should be 43 sq. in. I am currently using one, 6" aero for the one sub and it sounds amazing on higher frequencies, yet rolls off very steeply below like 35-36Hz. Before I got this box, I tried one 8" aero in the same size box, which is 50 sq. in. of port. The sub unloaded very badly, creating a ton of air movement, but no sound to speak of. Higher frequencies were nearly gone and low frequencies (35<), sounded like air, not deep bass. So I guess my question is, what would be my best bet as far as port area, size and quantity? It seems when I increase port area, the sub does not like it... could this be some other variable I am not seeing? I want to peak lower, around 30-32Hz, which I am starting to think is impossible given the high resonant frequency of my Explorer. The subs will be on a Banda ICE 2.5k eventually, will break the new sub in with my BRZ1700.1 @2ohms, about 600RMS each sub. Input is greatly appreciated, as I do not intend to build this box twice (birch is expensive lol). Thanks! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 I read on digital designs website you should have 16 sq inch of port per cubic foot of box. and that u tune the port to the box not the subwoofer. Id punch in 160 sq inches into port calculator and that shuld show u length of port. prolly around 20-25 inches long is my guess Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 As far as tuning too 32 hertz i wouldn't tune that low id go for 35-38 hertz. i had a box tuned to 32 that i paid 200 dolars for and i tried a box someone was thrown out tuned to 38 . Ill jus say the 200 dollar boxwent in the shed and the 38 stayed in my car Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 I am only tuning that low because I am chasing low frequencies. The way this vehicle peaks, I may as well tune high and chase numbers.... The tuning frequency isn't my issue, it's the port area and size. Went through so much trial and error with the boxes for the one 15 and different port sizes, I just want to get it right the first time around this time. With all the expert box builders on this forum, you would think someone would have some input on a simple aero ported box for two 15's.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Well this has been a REALLY worthwhile post! Thanks MasterBasser and alaskanzx5, seems you two are the only ones who have helped me out! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADiMartno Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I don't know that much about this but I think it suggests 3 6" aeroports because the predicted port velocity would be higher than their calculator allows. The port velocity is where you get port noise from so if you have a greater port area it would get rid of the port noise. If you were to use 2 6" aeroports I think each port would be around 10.47" for the box to be tuned to 32 hz. Based on linearteams calculators and the specs of your sub and enclosure 2 6" aeroports should be fine with no whistling. http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=ventcalculator http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=acousticpc For the acoustic power calculator Pe is double the subs and Vas is double the subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I don't know that much about this but I think it suggests 3 6" aeroports because the predicted port velocity would be higher than their calculator allows. The port velocity is where you get port noise from so if you have a greater port area it would get rid of the port noise. If you were to use 2 6" aeroports I think each port would be around 10.47" for the box to be tuned to 32 hz. Based on linearteams calculators and the specs of your sub and enclosure 2 6" aeroports should be fine with no whistling. http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=ventcalculator http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=acousticpc For the acoustic power calculator Pe is double the subs and Vas is double the subs. So two 6" aeros would be enough to eliminate choking and whistling, while being a small enough area for the subs not to unload? I get really confused with all of this port area stuff, can never seen to get the right calculations myself lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 So two 6" aeros would be enough to eliminate choking and whistling, while being a small enough area for the subs not to unload? I get really confused with all of this port area stuff, can never seen to get the right calculations myself lol Alright, so here is what I think, I think two 6" aero ports is not nearly enough port area and you are going to have the same problem of no low bass that you are having with your current box. Here is my reasoning, I think you are getting port compression due to high port velocities and that is killing your output when you get close to your tuning frequency. I know you tried using an 8" port and it didn't work out like you wanted. However I really think something else must have been going on there that caused it not work how you wanted it to. An 8" port really isn't anything excessively large for the size of sub and box you are dealing with. I don't know if it was how the port and sub were oriented in the box or what, but my gut feeling is there had to something causing that to happen other than just the increased port area. My suggestion to you is if you want to stick with aero ports is to use three 6" ports. Worse case scenario is if you try it with three and don't like it you can always block one off and shorten up the other two to bring your tuning back where you want it. Hell you could just block one off and leave the other where they are at, which will lower your tuning a good bit, and just see how that sounds, if nothing else it will be educational. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 So two 6" aeros would be enough to eliminate choking and whistling, while being a small enough area for the subs not to unload? I get really confused with all of this port area stuff, can never seen to get the right calculations myself lol Alright, so here is what I think, I think two 6" aero ports is not nearly enough port area and you are going to have the same problem of no low bass that you are having with your current box. Here is my reasoning, I think you are getting port compression due to high port velocities and that is killing your output when you get close to your tuning frequency. I know you tried using an 8" port and it didn't work out like you wanted. However I really think something else must have been going on there that caused it not work how you wanted it to. An 8" port really isn't anything excessively large for the size of sub and box you are dealing with. I don't know if it was how the port and sub were oriented in the box or what, but my gut feeling is there had to something causing that to happen other than just the increased port area. My suggestion to you is if you want to stick with aero ports is to use three 6" ports. Worse case scenario is if you try it with three and don't like it you can always block one off and shorten up the other two to bring your tuning back where you want it. Hell you could just block one off and leave the other where they are at, which will lower your tuning a good bit, and just see how that sounds, if nothing else it will be educational. I was thinking the same thing. Run 3 of the 6" and if I do need to reduce back down to two, it's easy to block the 3rd port and leave it there as a "dummy port". Would keep the same appearance and like you said, would lower my tuning a lot, which may be what it actually needs. Doing the 3 should cover all bases of my tuning and I don't see why I won't be able to get it satisfactory doing it that way. Seeing I have about 6ft. of 6" PVC and can flare ends like a champ, lol.... I will give that a try. Thank you greatly for the input! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Sounds great! Let us know how it turns out and I wanna see pics! "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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