bcbrassard Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I think i broke my housing off on my stock alt for it to work. IMO it doesnt make it water proof or add enough protection over the post to make a difference. But thats me, I have a older car and did what it takes to make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pioneerforlife Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 dang that's a tight fit. I would make a little distro block and run a small jumper of 1/0 from the alt to the distro block. them attach the stock wiring and the wiring to your system to that. 2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback Pioneer HU 4 Digital Designs 9515i's in a B pillar. 2 Soundstream XXX 15K's (running at 16 volts) Soundstream Mids/Highs in custom door panels (getting rebuilt soon) Soundstream TA2.160 and TA2.400 Sky High and KNU wiring 3 Banks of Maxwell caps Winston Lithium (not a fan) Bump4Life 250 Amp Alt. aka USAlternators Soundstream Focus and Avenger Build Log Instagram @p4linnovation YouTube: Team Blowin Loud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Im looking into it. Should i worry about the extra current flowing through the unfused run between the alt and distro block since it will have both 4gauge and 0 gauge coming off it? and what about the question on the second fuse lol thanks for the input Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Way tight! look like the plastic is a stopper and might be a nut under neath that? Looks like your going to have to make up a power block for all that to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefourth Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Alright, So admittedly this is my first time doing a big three with 0 gauge, so this may be a newb problem. But I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S and the battery is in the back. I am running SHCA 0 gauge from alt to battery. The issue is SHCA Lug is so thick and with the stock lug too there isn't enough threads on the Alternator Bolt to get the nut back on. Its barely too short. Anyone have a simple solution? One additional question: I have one 300 amp fuse about 6" from the alt to the battery in the rear is about 12'. Do i need a second fuse by the battery? Thanks Guys! What kind of alternator are you running? A 300 amp fuse for a stock alt seems like to much to me... I believe you need to fuse accordingly to the alternator size. Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do thatI can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream. oh lawd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Call your local alt rebuilder and see if they can put a longer stud on it for you. Also thefourth is right no need to fuse higher than your alts output. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I was fusing for the wires capacity. Its only like 100-20 amp alt right now. Depending on how everything works out i may be adding a 250 amp Singer soon, but even the stock wire is fused at 250amps. Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Just figured out something. that may make this work. Im not entirely sure but it looks like there is a second nut that can be removed. Ill check it out later. So I do or dont need that second fuse at the battery end? Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Why don't u make or have some make u a bus bar for it. Check with tool maker and cnf distribution. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks for the help today guys! I wound up modifying the alternator post and taking the second nut off I mentioned earlier. That made it possible for both terminals to fit. I would like to think that the big 3 was a success because my charging voltage went from 13.8-9 up to 14.3-4 @ 2k rpm and it stays about 14 volts at idle. Half a volt is a pretty big jump right? Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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