SnowDrifter Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 And I was all warmed up. Seems like y'all got it under control @OP if your crimp is good, you physically couldn't solder it. There's nothing to wick into. It becomes a single, solid, impermeable piece of metal.If you can solder, it means your crimp was junk in the first place and you should solder from the get go ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Well, I did crimp 0/1 last night with a chisel, a mini sledge, and my vice.... And I can tell you that when I put it in my vice, I can pull on it as hard as I want and can't separate it. That is no crimp. It's a hackjob. The split style are kinda weak and the crimp doesn't stay as well as I like. That's why I solder them.. I have tried rosin core solder with CCA wire and copper lugs and it didn't work for me but I have no issue with IFC wire. Just my .02 Split style are usually made for soldering, the closed end is the crimping lug. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Well, I did crimp 0/1 last night with a chisel, a mini sledge, and my vice.... And I can tell you that when I put it in my vice, I can pull on it as hard as I want and can't separate it. That is no crimp. It's a hackjob. The split style are kinda weak and the crimp doesn't stay as well as I like. That's why I solder them.. I have tried rosin core solder with CCA wire and copper lugs and it didn't work for me but I have no issue with IFC wire. Just my .02 Split style are usually made for soldering, the closed end is the crimping lug. Go back and read page one. Lol I am way way ahead of ya buddy. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 I think that someone should do a test, take 2 short runs, one soldered, the other crimped, then one to positive of a battery to a coil or resistance big enough to not burn or explode, after the coil use the other wire and connect to the negative of the battery. the coil will glow red of all the current is passing through it, and use a thermal gun to measure the heat from the crimped and the soldered terminal, the terminal with less temperature should be the best. (hope it works though lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf2 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Well, I did crimp 0/1 last night with a chisel, a mini sledge, and my vice.... And I can tell you that when I put it in my vice, I can pull on it as hard as I want and can't separate it.1. I hope this is a joke2. Just because you can't separate it doesn't mean it's a proper crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf2 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 I think that someone should do a test, take 2 short runs, one soldered, the other crimped, then one to positive of a battery to a coil or resistance big enough to not burn or explode, after the coil use the other wire and connect to the negative of the battery. the coil will glow red of all the current is passing through it, and use a thermal gun to measure the heat from the crimped and the soldered terminal, the terminal with less temperature should be the best. (hope it works though lol) I'd use a battery charger rather than a battery for that test And as for crimping vs soldering, it'll always be one of the great debates... But in big power applications they crimp, not solder (talking multi KW) at least around me. Soldering is known to be super conductive and a good connection as well... Pick your poison! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 I think that someone should do a test, take 2 short runs, one soldered, the other crimped, then one to positive of a battery to a coil or resistance big enough to not burn or explode, after the coil use the other wire and connect to the negative of the battery. the coil will glow red of all the current is passing through it, and use a thermal gun to measure the heat from the crimped and the soldered terminal, the terminal with less temperature should be the best. (hope it works though lol) I'd use a battery charger rather than a battery for that test And as for crimping vs soldering, it'll always be one of the great debates... But in big power applications they crimp, not solder (talking multi KW) at least around me. Soldering is known to be super conductive and a good connection as well... Pick your poison! Even if you solder, you can still use crimp lugs. They are MEATY and made of copper Vs the thin split end ones made of brass Compare copper vs brass conductivity here: FWIW a couple team mates have seen a small gain on the meter when switching over to the copper lugs as opposed to the brass ones ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 16 ton hydralic crimper all day On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 I think that someone should do a test, take 2 short runs, one soldered, the other crimped, then one to positive of a battery to a coil or resistance big enough to not burn or explode, after the coil use the other wire and connect to the negative of the battery. the coil will glow red of all the current is passing through it, and use a thermal gun to measure the heat from the crimped and the soldered terminal, the terminal with less temperature should be the best. (hope it works though lol) I'd use a battery charger rather than a battery for that test And as for crimping vs soldering, it'll always be one of the great debates... But in big power applications they crimp, not solder (talking multi KW) at least around me. Soldering is known to be super conductive and a good connection as well... Pick your poison! Funny you state it that way because solder actually is poison. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 So the split terminals are better for singer while the closed end are better for crimping. I proper crimp should have the wire smashed so tight that it's basically welded together. A good crimp would prevent solder from being able to drip down the wire making it pointless to solder a crimped wire. Copper is better then brass There I think I got all the info in one post. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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