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Is it good or bad or crimp wires then solder?


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The crimp looks as if its with a hex bit.

That does look like it would leave a similar looking crimp as a hex bit would

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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that head looks exactly how the wire i have was crimped.. im guessing the metal mart sticking out keeps the terminal from splitting or caving in

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But here's the thing.... it's not going to be a solid piece like you would get with soldering or crimping a copper lug. And the wire strands on the end of that are exposed to moisture allowing water into your connection. And because it's not one piece, your connection is only as strong as the pressure the ears on that lug can provide without bending. Does it stay in place? Yeah probably. Is it a quality connection? Nope. Wouldn't cut it in an automotive application where you have a wide range of temperatures, humidity, vibration, and chemical exposure

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yes you are correct but the argument here is which are made to crimp a which is to solder.. if they was to asked what terminal to use i would choose solid copper.. i have over 100 terminals that prove which are the best..

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The other kind I've seen are open barrel connections like these

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Those are usually used for smaller wire. And when they are used, generally weatherproofed in some manner. While it may be acceptable for 16 and 18ga wires carrying low levels of current, it won't cut it for 0 gauge wire carrying a couple hundred amps. I've seen people solder them, but then you're back to square 1 of you should just solder in the first place. And good luck finding open barrel terminals/crimper in that size.

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^

And that's the reason I asked.

I have the Rockford amp kits and over time they did get corrosion on them from being exposed. That is why when I reinstall I will put all new ends on. Soldered and heat shrink.

Just my preference.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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yes you are correct but the argument here is which are made to crimp a which is to solder.. if they was to asked what terminal to use i would choose solid copper.. i have over 100 terminals that prove which are the best..

Copper lugs can be either crimped or soldered. Soldering will be a bit different as you can't feed it in through the top, but it's still doable and with great results.

The open ended ring terminals are solder only. You may have seen people try to crimp them. I've seen my fair share. But just because it works today doesn't mean it will still be good tomorrow. Those connections go to poop quick on cars and hey presto now you have electrical problems

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yes you are correct but the argument here is which are made to crimp a which is to solder.. if they was to asked what terminal to use i would choose solid copper.. i have over 100 terminals that prove which are the best..

Copper lugs can be either crimped or soldered. Soldering will be a bit different as you can't feed it in through the top, but it's still doable and with great results.

The open ended ring terminals are solder only. You may have seen people try to crimp them. I've seen my fair share. But just because it works today doesn't mean it will still be good tomorrow. Those connections go to poop quick on cars and hey presto now you have electrical problems

they are not solder ONLY.. yes i seen them fail but its due to not using the correct tool to get the job done right.. fosgate crimps them and a shop i used crimp them and they are solid connection. though i would solder to seal out the elements.. you have to use proper tools to get any job don right.. you cant torque heads down without a torque wrench.. just like you dont crimp with a hammer and pliers

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yes you are correct but the argument here is which are made to crimp a which is to solder.. if they was to asked what terminal to use i would choose solid copper.. i have over 100 terminals that prove which are the best..

Copper lugs can be either crimped or soldered. Soldering will be a bit different as you can't feed it in through the top, but it's still doable and with great results.

The open ended ring terminals are solder only. You may have seen people try to crimp them. I've seen my fair share. But just because it works today doesn't mean it will still be good tomorrow. Those connections go to poop quick on cars and hey presto now you have electrical problems

they are not solder ONLY.. yes i seen them fail but its due to not using the correct tool to get the job done right.. fosgate crimps them and a shop i used crimp them and they are solid connection. though i would solder to seal out the elements.. you have to use proper tools to get any job don right.. you cant torque heads down without a torque wrench.. just like you dont crimp with a hammer and pliers

No you crimp with pliers and a clamp.

when I use split lugs I crimp it just to hold the lug on the wire then i

solder them.

Next go around I'm buying a hydraulic crimper and copper lugs.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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