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Is it good or bad or crimp wires then solder?


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those terminal are not great either so i wont be using them anytime soon even if i could solder. ive seen them fail even soldered.. they get too hot due to resistance

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See it's not that split lugs are solder only it's that if not soldered they are weaker and more vulnerable to the weather when compared to a closed end lug.

That is why I said I'm going to replace all the stock RF crimps with be RF kids and solder them. Heat shrink to cover it up and look good.

The ones on my 0 gauge RF wire that came crinkled have corrosion on them after less then 4 years. That is the biggest reason to solder those lugs.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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yes you are correct but the argument here is which are made to crimp a which is to solder.. if they was to asked what terminal to use i would choose solid copper.. i have over 100 terminals that prove which are the best..

Copper lugs can be either crimped or soldered. Soldering will be a bit different as you can't feed it in through the top, but it's still doable and with great results.

The open ended ring terminals are solder only. You may have seen people try to crimp them. I've seen my fair share. But just because it works today doesn't mean it will still be good tomorrow. Those connections go to poop quick on cars and hey presto now you have electrical problems

they are not solder ONLY.. yes i seen them fail but its due to not using the correct tool to get the job done right.. fosgate crimps them and a shop i used crimp them and they are solid connection. though i would solder to seal out the elements.. you have to use proper tools to get any job don right.. you cant torque heads down without a torque wrench.. just like you dont crimp with a hammer and pliers

Just because you can squeeze them tight enough to stay in the short term doesn't mean they will be reliable in the long term. The hallmark of a good crimp is that it's cold welded. At that point no moisture can get in there, nothing can wiggle loose, it's not going to fatigue it's way out. It's just not going to come apart. You don't get those qualities using the open ended lugs. The metals are dissimilar and won't weld together - no matter how good of a crimping tool you use.

I've tried to crimp them in the past to see what would happen, and I found the results weren't all that satisfactory. I'm speaking about this from not only theory, but also personal observations.

If you need to solder your crimp, well.... I just don't get it. I don't understand why you'd go through the effort of trying to crimp something, only to try and feed solder in it which now won't wick as well because there will be some strands of wire stuck together. Crimping then soldering is the worst of both worlds TBH. You don't get the benefits of crimping as the metals aren't fused, and you don't get the benefits of soldering as the solder won't wick into the wire/terminal and fuse them either.

No matter which way you cut it, crimping or soldering, your end goal is to fuse metal. Crimping cold welds, soldering joins them using another metal as a medium.

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I only slightly crimp well I guess I should say squeeze split lugs onto the wire just so it's a snug fit and stays in place to solder it.

One other thing that should be stated is that soldering can be done wrong and cause a poor connection as well.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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^^That's fine. Squeezing to stay in place is one thing, mashing the strands trying to crimp is another.

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Provided you get your pool of solder hot enough that it will remain molten as it flows into the wire, no problems. If it's too cold it'll harden before it wicks fully and you'll end up with a poor connection. You'll get a feel for it. You can tell it's wicking really well because the bit of wire just outside the lug will be hard - you can feel it. You want just a hair less than that, all the solder contained to the section of wire that's placed inside the lug.

If it didn't wick enough, you can apply some more heat while the wire is in the lug, just like soldering traditionally.

Just make sure your wire is clean. Putting a but of flux on the wire itself beforehand helps as the flux will be burned off while you're heating the solder in the lug. Doesn't work as well so you gotta give it a boost ;)

Look up solder pellets - these are made specifically for this purpose

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I agree that they shouldn't be used for crimping but split kids can be done both ways just one way will eventually fail one way or another.

The fact that the wire child wells together does no good for you though.

As explained to me electricity travels across wire bout through it. So it being one big chunk gives less surface area. Then the lug doesn't have as much surface area as the individual stands of the wire does.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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The skin effect you are referring to happens with ac not dc

Edit- here's a link

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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