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Battery Isolator Question


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I just received my XS D7500 this morning and it's a monster. My plans are to install it in the rear of my 2001 Toyota 4Runner using a battery isolator so I can continue to use my regular starting battery under the hood. It's time for me to order my isolator and I'm reading a tutorial on it and I'm starting to get confused as to whether to use a diode or solenoid type isolator and how to do it without damaging and overcharging my starting battery. Alternator is a Singer 240A (being built) and will be running a BC 5500 and a C1100.4 amplifier. Any help would be appreciated.

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As long as you have an AGM under the hood, I wouldn't think you would need a battery isolator unless you plan on jamming for long periods of time, and want to be sure to save some juice under the hood to start your ride.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan

2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm

2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm

Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back

Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis

XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank

Singer 220 amp alt

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As long as you have an AGM under the hood, I wouldn't think you would need a battery isolator unless you plan on jamming for long periods of time, and want to be sure to save some juice under the hood to start your ride.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You don't need a battery isolator whether it's AGM or lead-acid or whatever else, but it's been said that supposedly using an AGM and different battery type will lower the resting voltage and life-span of the AGM of the shorter life battery. I haven't seen any proof of this yet, but if anyone has some I'd like to see it. OP, unless you plan to jam with the car not running, don't get the isolator. If you're just afraid of mixing the AGM and a lead-acid, then i say don't be. Wire it, save up and grab another AGM. It doesn't have to be XS.

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Thank you. I definitely was not planning on playing the stereo without the engine running. I was just under the impression that if the batteries were not identical that they had to be isolated or one would discharge the other. I would definitely rather spend my money on a small agm to fit under the hood than on an isolator. Obviously there's no way I could fit an agm identical to the 7500 under the hood. It's an absolute monster and WAY bigger than I expected. So if all I have to do is get an agm that fits under my hood I should probably just do that. It's almost hard to believe it's that easy.

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Yep. Just get an AGM of the same group size of your current battery, or measure your available space for the battery and find one that matches those dimensions.

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As long as you have an AGM under the hood, I wouldn't think you would need a battery isolator unless you plan on jamming for long periods of time, and want to be sure to save some juice under the hood to start your ride.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You don't need a battery isolator whether it's AGM or lead-acid or whatever else, but it's been said that supposedly using an AGM and different battery type will lower the resting voltage and life-span of the AGM of the shorter life battery. I haven't seen any proof of this yet, but if anyone has some I'd like to see it. OP, unless you plan to jam with the car not running, don't get the isolator. If you're just afraid of mixing the AGM and a lead-acid, then i say don't be. Wire it, save up and grab another AGM. It doesn't have to be XS.

You haven't seen proof that wet cells rest at a lower voltage than agm's?

That's the reason people say not to because the wet cell will pull the agm down to its resting voltage.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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As long as you have an AGM under the hood, I wouldn't think you would need a battery isolator unless you plan on jamming for long periods of time, and want to be sure to save some juice under the hood to start your ride.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

and destroy the alternator in the process.. isolators are a waste of money and playing your system till you drain the rear bank is bad for alternators and batteries. dont ever suggest this and people. never listen when people tell you to do this for that same reason.

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Ok thanks guys. I feel like I may be on the right track now. I think I'm going to get an agm under the hood that fits the largest dimensions the battery compartment will hold. Connect the Singer 240A to the positive on the front agm using 2/0 and run 2/0 from the front agm positive to the positive on the D7500 in back. Properly fusing of course. I will be doing the Big 3 and will make sure all grounds are 2/0 and done properly. Also gonna get a good battery charger to periodically top off both batteries. I will not be using an isolator and will not run the system with the engine off. If I'm not on the right track please correct me.

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As long as you have an AGM under the hood, I wouldn't think you would need a battery isolator unless you plan on jamming for long periods of time, and want to be sure to save some juice under the hood to start your ride.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You don't need a battery isolator whether it's AGM or lead-acid or whatever else, but it's been said that supposedly using an AGM and different battery type will lower the resting voltage and life-span of the AGM of the shorter life battery. I haven't seen any proof of this yet, but if anyone has some I'd like to see it. OP, unless you plan to jam with the car not running, don't get the isolator. If you're just afraid of mixing the AGM and a lead-acid, then i say don't be. Wire it, save up and grab another AGM. It doesn't have to be XS.

You haven't seen proof that wet cells rest at a lower voltage than agm's?

That's the reason people say not to because the wet cell will pull the agm down to its resting voltage.

does that prove that the life span is shorter because two different type batteries on the same circuit share a common voltage? No. Where's the proof that it shortens the life span? i know they have different resting voltages normally, my old duralast gold always sat at 12.3 whereas the AGM's i have are 12.8. I haven't wired an AGM and wet cell together to see if it changes the resting voltage, and i don't have enough money to spare to test it myself. so if there's some available proof/documentation of any kind showing a shorter life span in that configuration, are you able to guide me in the right direction?

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