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Financial Mistake--Team Droppin' Hz--'10 Taurus Trunk Wall--Oval box COMPLETED--Video added (5/30/16)--DC Audio, PRV, Crescendo


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What batteries do you have in the car? And did you say you're using CCA instead of OFC? Is that just for big3 or throughout?

Running a D6500 up front and a XP950 in the back. Should have a second 950 coming soon. Was running all CCA for the longest time but I'm making the change to OFC this time around. Currently my big 3 is still CCA though.

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that xp950 is supposed to be good for about 800w? the front batt is good for like 3000w i think? That should work great, but if you can't get it to the rear of the car you'll have a low power issue. Also how are your grounds? Where did you ground, how did you ground? A multimeter would be really cool right about now, heres a $10 one on amazon that will prob read your amp terminal voltages http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-34-82141-Digital-Multimeter-Functions/dp/B000X5TSUA/

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that xp950 is supposed to be good for about 800w? the front batt is good for like 3000w i think? That should work great, but if you can't get it to the rear of the car you'll have a low power issue. Also how are your grounds? Where did you ground, how did you ground? A multimeter would be really cool right about now, heres a $10 one on amazon that will prob read your amp terminal voltages http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-34-82141-Digital-Multimeter-Functions/dp/B000X5TSUA/

Nice find. Snatched that up. Grounds are ran from battery to the engine block ground strap on the passenger side and then another down to the drivers side front fender on the inside corner close to the headlight. Already a grounding cable there as well.

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On my taurus, one clamp is on the negative battery leads, I was able to squeeze a KNU 0 through it but I had to crimp the ring lug on after it went through the ring. I ran it from neg battery terminal, through that ammeter, then terminated it to the fender right there, its maybe 18" of cable. The + ammeter is right near the alternator. You can snake your alt cable through it if theres room. If not, you could do something like 4awg off the alt(factory alt only does like 175A max at best) to a small fuse, then 0 from the other side of the fuse to the battery, or just continue with 4. The 4awg cable should be sufficient to carry <200a across the engine bay to the battery.

Here is a pic of the negative one, without my wire through it yet.

https://goo.gl/photos/4ex3Z45ACwrwWwNSA

Ford did this to dial back the accessories load and save fuel. no need to have the alt slamming voltage out constantly at full capacity if its not needed. Poses some new issues for people that actually like to change things in their vehicles.

I tried to find the ammeter for positive and negative connections, but I could not find either one of them anywhere. I moved things around and had no luck.

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It's possible your year/model doesn't have them? I have a '14. I'd rather NOT have them TBH so you may be in luck. The negative one is literally next to the battery under the intake tube, so if you don't see it I'd say you don't have it. You can prob try to find the part online and that would say if it fits your year or not as a way to double check, or just call parts at the ford dealer and they might be able to assist

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It's possible your year/model doesn't have them? I have a '14. I'd rather NOT have them TBH so you may be in luck. The negative one is literally next to the battery under the intake tube, so if you don't see it I'd say you don't have it. You can prob try to find the part online and that would say if it fits your year or not as a way to double check, or just call parts at the ford dealer and they might be able to assist

I mean that's the way it's looking. I didn't find anything at all.

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Well voltage is definitely my issue. Took my DMM out and played a track and it stayed clear down around 11.3-12. Obviously not the greatest. but explains why I'm only seeing about half of whats available outta that TS3.5. Guess I better start saving...

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