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Alt Whine - Can't Find The Source!


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Why ask for advice if you aren't going to listen to the answers you get?

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Edit: I just read my post, I'm not trying to come off like a a$$hole lol so don't take it that way. I appreciate the fast responses and all the help you can give me!

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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The answer to your problem was already given to you, ground the alt to the chassis.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Why ask for advice if you aren't going to listen to the answers you get?

You ninja'd me, I just posted that I'm not trying to argue. I'm trying to understand why the engine and alternator case sharing a common chassis ground is so bad that the alt case needs to be drilled and tap.

Sorry it came off bad!

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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Think about how many parts of that engine it has to travel through to get back to the chassis.

That's why you ground the alt to the chassis to eliminate all the extra bs and go straight to the source.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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The answer to your problem was already given to you, ground the alt to the chassis.

If the noise coming from the lack of a dedicated alt ground is that big of an issue, wouldn't I be better off grounding the alt case directly to the battery?

And just avoiding the added resistance of going through the chassis?

2006 Mustang GT

Audio:2x RF R1200-1D, 2x RF R400-4, 2x RF P1S48, 2x RF T1682c, 2x DC 12" Lvl 3 D2, 1x RF T1652-s, XS Power Batts, Toolmaker blocks, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods:Too many to list...


2008 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L

Audio:1x RF R1200-1D, 1x RF R250x4, 2x Sundown 10" SD2, 2x RF P1652, 1x RF P1652-s, Q-logic kickpanels, Knu wiring, Knu RCA's, custom enclosure with amp rack

Performance Mods: Coming Soon

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Even doing the ground to one of the alts mounting bolts would be better than doing nothing.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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The negative post on the battery is not ground.

I personally do both.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Did you try ground your rca's together befor getting the loop isolator?

If this was the cause it would do it all the time not just with the engine running.

Why he is playing with the engine off is another issue altogether.

Why is it an issue to play with the engine off? I'm not running 10kw on one battery, it's a relatively low powered system. I demo my Mustang all the time without the engine running because I have the batteries to support the power.

Because 12V systems are meant to operate at 14 ish volts and if you are getting on it then the demand will make your voltage drop to unsafe levels. And how many batteries do you have and where are they located?

Did you do the big 3?

Specifically, did you ground the alt case to the chassis on the same side as the battery ground?

I did the battery to chassis, I haven't done the alt power or the engine to chasis. I'm assuming the alt doesn't have a dedicated case ground and just shares a common ground with the motor I haven't looked though...

Do some homework on why we do the big 3.

The goal is to make the most efficient return path to the alternator. Trust me, I promise you this is good advice, give your alt a dedicated ground run to the frame. Don't just ground the engine and call it good because there is conductivity between the engine and the alt case.

Up front you should have a common place on the frame to ground your alt and battery to. In the rear, ground your amps and batteries to a solid location on the frame on the SAME side that you grounded the stuff up front i.e. passengers or drivers side.

I have done my homework on why the big 3 works, it's an extremely simple principal that doesn't require much more than common sense, and I plan on doing it. And I'm not running a second battery or anything crazy. I'm running one sub amp and one small 4channel, common ground, and it's grounded back to the battery (all 1/0) not to the chassis. To me, this is the cause of where the noise comes from, the extra resistance from the engine/alt ground to battery, going through the chassis. And there is no place on a stock alt to run a dedicated ground, and I'm not going to drill and tap in to the case. It's bolted to the engine, no plastic brackets, so sharing a common ground with the engine is not a big issue with this small amount of power.

I'm thinking maybe a bonding wire between these two points, just to eliminate the difference in potential. Thoughts?

Ring terminals on both ends of some 1/0 OFC one end attached to mounting bolt of alternator other end attached to chassis. it's an extremely simple principal :)

Do I understand correctly that instead of grounding the amp in the back you ran cable all the way up front to the battery? Wait, you have only 1 battery and you think you have the reserve to demo a system with the engine off safely? Ok, I am learning alot here as I try to help you. You are receiving good solid advice but you think you know too much to accept it. The fact that you have a system installed and no big 3 done tells me right away that you either don't know or don't care enough about how this stuff works just yet. If you don't know, that is fine, we all start somewhere but for the love of all things holy take the good advice you are seeking.

Ok back on task, do you really think that a single run of 1/0 from the rear to the front has less resistance than the frame of a vehicle?

Ground your amp to the frame in the rear on one side and do the same to your alt. If it is truly alt whine this should help you out a ton, it will go away or be greatly reduced.

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