Emoxihax Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Hey guys so I'm installing a system in my WRX, here's my quick sketchup of 2/3 of the big 3. I can not figure out where to place the 3rd part of the big 3, the negative to engine block(?) here's my 30 second shitty paint mockup, can someone help me to figure out where to put the 3rd wire? 2004 Volkswagen GLI 1 10" Skar VVX ^^^ Looking for an amp to run it, Pm me if you have one ^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Run it to the alternator case or one of the bolts that hold the alternator in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Alt case to strut tower for sure. If you have more wire do alt case to bat neg also Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 The alt is essentially a part of the block. Any wire from the motor to the frame will suffice. Alt attachement bolt to strut tower look to be easiest. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Why no STi? SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 The alt is essentially a part of the block. Any wire from the motor to the frame will suffice. Alt attachement bolt to strut tower look to be easiest. Depends on where on the motor, and the gain can vary since from one vehicle to the next there are different places on the block to run a ground to. Like you said, alt case is definitely the safest bet, minimizes resistance and the chance for someone to stick a bolt in a much less than ideal spot on the engine. I recommend alt case 10/10 times because someone like you or I would know what we are trying to accomplish by adding this wire run, and would put it in a good spot, but we aren't the ones asking the questions. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emoxihax Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Why no STi? I wanted one but couldn't justify the way higher price tag 2004 Volkswagen GLI 1 10" Skar VVX ^^^ Looking for an amp to run it, Pm me if you have one ^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Use one of the mounting bolts for the alternator. That's how I have mine done. That's your end goal anyway is to ground the alt ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 ^What they said. I have: one batt + to alt + one batt - to alt mounting bolt one batt - to strut tower. UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TezasBassBox Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Another for the alternator. I've done it on a couple cars and notice after the alternator never got hot again... Subs don't hit when powered by cheap amps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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