why am i still losing power???

[harlemn8ive]

I am hoping there is a simple answer for my question. I have 2 hds312's powered by 2 ct sounds 1400.1 at 2 ohms, 3 pairs of soundqubed pro audio mids powered by an 800.4 MB Quartz 2 pairs of crescendo ft1's powered by a MB Quartz 200.2. 3 odyssey pc1700 in the trunk a yellow top up front and 200 amp alternator. however when i am playing my music i am taking some serious voltage hits as bad as 1.8 at that point i let up on the knob. Any ideas as to why? Everything is ran with 0 gauge cable. I am at a wits end any assistance would be highly appreciated. i also tuned everything with a DD1 as well. not sure if it matters but i am running the Japanese version of a DEH80 prs as far as my head unit goes

[audiofanaticz]

If the batteries are all good, and seems to be plenty for your setup, I would first assume poor connections on your power and ground wires.

Loose ring terminals that are not soldered or crimped properly.

Loose ring terminals that are not bolted to the batteries, alternator, or frame tight enough.

Poor grounding location, or poor ground all together with it being held in place by zipties, self tapers, or drywall screws on a painted surface adding resistance.

Just last week a kid stopped by wondering why his Shark3500 amp kept turning off and making a large pop sound. He was told his speakers where blown.

I open the trunk and the first thing i noticed was his ground was in a bad spot with bare wire twisted and ziptied to the latch that your trunk locks onto, it had 4 ohms of resistance in a 3 foot piece of wire. I told him this was a bad ground and he didnt understand why or how.

I proceeded checking the woofers and them checking out good.
So I had him play it and listen for myself and notice the amp turn off and back on with a pop.
After popping the hood I noticed a melted fuse holder, the power wire casing was burned for about 1foot, almost all the wire was melted away ( it was cca, not that its bad or the cause of the failure).

I pulled the little remaining wire out of the fuse holder with ease. After breaking away the melted fuse holder cover the allen bolts that secure the fuse where loose, along with the set screw for the other side of the fuse holder.

I put a ring terminal and properly grounded his amp, and showed him the difference in resistance on my multimeter, from 4 ohms to .1 ohms which was actually 0.0 ohms difference due to the resistance in the multimeter probes.

I also gave him a scrap piece of wire and a use fuse and fuse holder from my scrap drawers and put that on, and magically no issues with the stereo.

Keep in mind, this was a kid that thought all the wiring was good, everything was tight, and claimed to know a decent bit about systems, but wanted to see if it was possible to fix his woofers that where not even the problem.

[harlemn8ive]

If the batteries are all good, and seems to be plenty for your setup, I would first assume poor connections on your power and ground wires.

Loose ring terminals that are not soldered or crimped properly.

Loose ring terminals that are not bolted to the batteries, alternator, or frame tight enough.

Poor grounding location, or poor ground all together with it being held in place by zipties, self tapers, or drywall screws on a painted surface adding resistance.

Just last week a kid stopped by wondering why his Shark3500 amp kept turning off and making a large pop sound. He was told his speakers where blown.

I open the trunk and the first thing i noticed was his ground was in a bad spot with bare wire twisted and ziptied to the latch that your trunk locks onto, it had 4 ohms of resistance in a 3 foot piece of wire. I told him this was a bad ground and he didnt understand why or how.

I proceeded checking the woofers and them checking out good.

So I had him play it and listen for myself and notice the amp turn off and back on with a pop.

After popping the hood I noticed a melted fuse holder, the power wire casing was burned for about 1foot, almost all the wire was melted away ( it was cca, not that its bad or the cause of the failure).

I pulled the little remaining wire out of the fuse holder with ease. After breaking away the melted fuse holder cover the allen bolts that secure the fuse where loose, along with the set screw for the other side of the fuse holder.

I put a ring terminal and properly grounded his amp, and showed him the difference in resistance on my multimeter, from 4 ohms to .1 ohms which was actually 0.0 ohms difference due to the resistance in the multimeter probes.

I also gave him a scrap piece of wire and a use fuse and fuse holder from my scrap drawers and put that on, and magically no issues with the stereo.

Keep in mind, this was a kid that thought all the wiring was good, everything was tight, and claimed to know a decent bit about systems, but wanted to see if it was possible to fix his woofers that where not even the problem.

I figure the best thing i can do is rip it all apart and slowly go through everything. its gonna suck. I also have a lot of CCA cable I think i may replace it all with some OFC while I am at it. but thanks for the food for thought. I don't claim to know gobs about car audio but still learning. Nothing bad like zipties or anything but I am sure with the fact that the project has been done in a million sets some things could be done better beause being on a time restraint will cause minor errors

[audiofanaticz]

I mean, I run CCA myself.

All my runs front to back are CCA, 9 positivee and 9 negative, with that much it exceeds the amperage draw that will ever be ran front to back.

So I have no problems with it when its used in the right conditions.

However my wire from my 3 alts to my 2 front batteries are OFC, the wires that connect my 5 rear batteries together are OFC, and the wires that run from my rear batteries to my 4 5krms amps are OFC.

[RainStryke]

I'd test your alternator too, make sure it's keeping up.