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First box was a one hit wonder


Da-Hoe

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Ok so my first box i built was the recommended one from skar for my woofers and it turned out to be a one hit wonder. So my question is i used software to design a 1/4 wave enclosure but just want you guys to look everything over please. The vehicle is a 2011 Tahoe. no 3rd row seat max dimensions are 48w x 38d x 22h Keep in mind i have never used a enclosure software before so i would really appreciate you guys looking over the calculations and everything. I would prefer to keep the enclosure wide and deep but short unless it would effect performance.

My speakers are (2) Skar audio vvx v2 15" dual 4 ohm

Amplifier is Skar audio RP-1500.1 (running @ 1 ohm)

I Listen to rap/R&B so low deep bass is a must but dont want to lose higher freq either. I have read that these enclosures tuned to around 29 hz will play decent up to 45hz or so.

Here is the specs (sorry i dont know how to do 3d design so i only have measurments)

# of drivers 2

fs 37.7

qts .84

vas(cf) 2.9

sd (sq inches) 176.71

driver displ. .18

1/4 wave tuning port 27.7hz

line volume 12.53 (CF)

external height 20 inches

external width 41.5 inches

external depth 33 inches

cross section area line 185 sq inches

min cross section area 353.42 sq inches

line depth (inches) 10

.75 mdf

Cut sheet

top and bottom 41.5 x 33

front baffle 30.75 x 18.5

rear baffle 41.5 x 18.5

side panel 31.5 x 18.5

side panel 2 32.25 x 18.5

inner panel 21.5 18.5

inner panel 2 19.25 x 18.5

inner panel 3 19.25 x 18.5

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1/4 wave is a T-line, and I think ideally you'd want to tune it to the resonant frequency of the speaker itself. A friend of mine has made a few and they've gotten stupid loud and played pretty wide considering how little cone area/power there was for each of them lol. They're definitely efficient if built properly

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So I've got a few questions for ya on how you come up with your design.

You list the Sd of the driver as 176 sq in. That's way high for a 15" and is more what an 18" would have, it should be around 130 sq in. Where did you get that number?

What software did you use to design your T-Line? What is your total line length? I'm guessing its around 117".

What were the specs on your previous box? It would be interesting to see how it should compare to your new design.

The subs you have are pretty high QTS and low EBP. They may not work real well in a T-line. In general, T-lines are very similar to ported boxes. They both delay and amplify the wave coming off the back of the cone so that it compliments whats off the front. How they do this is different than how a ported box works, but the result is pretty much the same. Much like ported boxes, T-line like low QTS subs with higher EBPs. If built to a similar size as a ported box they are equally efficient.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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http://dbdynamixaudio.com/category/calculators/

is the website for box design. The cone area i found on here but may have accidently used the 18 measurements. the previous box was 42x26x18 subs up port back. each sub has its own enclosure. Its the box they recommended on there site for these speakers. line length im not sure since i do not have a drawing, sorry.

I'm just trying to get a design that hits harder then my alpine type r 12s did because this last box doesn't come close and leaves me disappointed. Any help would be greatly appreciated and i have also decided subs up port back doesn't sound as good to me so i prefer subs and port back

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The problem with box calculators like the one you used is it is very simplistic, its based off a lot of assumptions, and it doesn't give you any idea how the box is actually going to sound.

We get away with using these style of tools with ported boxes because most people already know the box specs they want (such as internal volume & tuning). With T-lines you have to figure out what your box specs need to be. Much like ported boxes, T-lines have a tuning frequency and the amount of boost you get at that frequency is determined by the shape and volume of the line.

If you are serious about designing a T-line that is going to sound like how you want it to I suggest you get a program called Hornresp. Its free, can model T-lines, and is very powerful. I can help you with it if you need.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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The problem with box calculators like the one you used is it is very simplistic, its based off a lot of assumptions, and it doesn't give you any idea how the box is actually going to sound.

We get away with using these style of tools with ported boxes because most people already know the box specs they want (such as internal volume & tuning). With T-lines you have to figure out what your box specs need to be. Much like ported boxes, T-lines have a tuning frequency and the amount of boost you get at that frequency is determined by the shape and volume of the line.

If you are serious about designing a T-line that is going to sound like how you want it to I suggest you get a program called Hornresp. Its free, can model T-lines, and is very powerful. I can help you with it if you need.

Yes if you could that would be great.

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Yes if you could that would be great.

I'm happy to help you with this, but I can't give you all the answers. I can't tell you what box will sound good to you, all I can do is show you have to find the info for yourself.

The first thing you need to do is get Hornresp. You can get it here: http://www.hornresp.net/

Its not the most intuitive program to use, but it is worth the effort. Once you have the program the first thing you should do is enter in your current box so you have something to compare against. Hornresp does not compensate for cabin gain, so the frequency response it shows you is not what you are going to get in your vehicle. However, what it will do is allow you to compare a new design against what you have now, which is just as useful IMHO.

Here is a really good guide for getting you started: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/36532-hornresp-dum-hmm-everyone.html

Once you have your existing box entered in I can help you will getting started on a T-line design.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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