one of meades videos got me thinking

[Jhunt94]

I'm not just talking about the main fuse and people around here tell others all the time even their amp runs the fuse is just to protect the wire which is false.

I'm well aware that there is multiple fuses in the vehicle I'm not a moron.

If you're throwing a 300 or 350amp fuse on your 1/0 because that's it's current carrying capability and you aren't actually drawing that much current you're right you aren't protecting anything but if you fused appropriately yes you are.

the amp run's fuse IS to protect the wire though. That is why you put it by the battery and not by the amp.

If you are throwing a 300 amp ANL fuse on a wire but only drawing 50 amps from it with a small system, YES you are STILL PROTECTING THE WIRE, and the car. How many amps do you think a direct short draws?

but wouldn't you also want to fuse to protect the amp? If an amplifier normally draws ~50 amps and something goes wrong one day and it starts pulling ~90 amps and you have a 300a fuse on the wire to protect the wire, then it's not going to blow. The amp could sit there and be drawing too much current until it smokes and the fuse wouldn't blow.

The only way an amp will draw more than intended is if a transistor shorts. Or somehow the rails short. Other than that an amp can't draw more than the components inside allow unless it's already broken which a fuse won't help anyway

I know there's a lot of "If's" in my question, but if it does break and starts drawing too much then the fuse could blow and cut the power before it catches fire. Again, there's a whole lot of if's in that, but it's just a thought

also wouldn't an amp be drawing more current than usual, if it was clipping hard?

[Bump4life]

So if it's just to protect the wire on the amp run why does the amp manufacturer recommend a fuse size?

Explain why amps for years and some still do had fuses built into them?

You know the right people to ask so have them come explain how a fuse only protects the wire.

because you need a LARGE enough fuse to carry the current the amp requires and not to blow it every time you turn the bass on. That is why. DUHHH.

Yeah and most times the actual current demand on music is less than the recommended fuse size and on top of that the fuses are know to pass ore current than they are rated for for periods of time.

My t1500bcd reccomended a 200 amp fuse, I never saw that much current demand and I had the alt and battery power to supply it.

So why should I fuse at 200 or 300 if the wire can handle it if my current demand was only around 100 amps on music?

You fuse in case of short I don't think you understand that fuses are failure mode. If something goes wrong that's why they are there. They aren't there if everything goes well.

[Bump4life]

I'm not just talking about the main fuse and people around here tell others all the time even their amp runs the fuse is just to protect the wire which is false.

I'm well aware that there is multiple fuses in the vehicle I'm not a moron.

If you're throwing a 300 or 350amp fuse on your 1/0 because that's it's current carrying capability and you aren't actually drawing that much current you're right you aren't protecting anything but if you fused appropriately yes you are.

the amp run's fuse IS to protect the wire though. That is why you put it by the battery and not by the amp.

If you are throwing a 300 amp ANL fuse on a wire but only drawing 50 amps from it with a small system, YES you are STILL PROTECTING THE WIRE, and the car. How many amps do you think a direct short draws?

but wouldn't you also want to fuse to protect the amp? If an amplifier normally draws ~50 amps and something goes wrong one day and it starts pulling ~90 amps and you have a 300a fuse on the wire to protect the wire, then it's not going to blow. The amp could sit there and be drawing too much current until it smokes and the fuse wouldn't blow.

The only way an amp will draw more than intended is if a transistor shorts. Or somehow the rails short. Other than that an amp can't draw more than the components inside allow unless it's already broken which a fuse won't help anyway

I know there's a lot of "If's" in my question, but if it does break and starts drawing too much then the fuse could blow and cut the power before it catches fire. Again, there's a whole lot of if's in that, but it's just a thought

also wouldn't an amp be drawing more current than usual, if it was clipping hard?

If you are clipping it is breaking the amp. It is drawing more than fets and power supply can handle and will eventually fail. Yes it draws more than

Usual because clipping reduces efficiency. As you approach peak power efficiency decreases and distortion increases. You reach a clip which means you are exceeding rail voltages of the amp. And it's trying to push more when it physically can't.

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

I believe you are missing the point, if your fuse is too big it might as well not even be there.

[Jhunt94]

I'm not just talking about the main fuse and people around here tell others all the time even their amp runs the fuse is just to protect the wire which is false.

I'm well aware that there is multiple fuses in the vehicle I'm not a moron.

If you're throwing a 300 or 350amp fuse on your 1/0 because that's it's current carrying capability and you aren't actually drawing that much current you're right you aren't protecting anything but if you fused appropriately yes you are.

the amp run's fuse IS to protect the wire though. That is why you put it by the battery and not by the amp.

If you are throwing a 300 amp ANL fuse on a wire but only drawing 50 amps from it with a small system, YES you are STILL PROTECTING THE WIRE, and the car. How many amps do you think a direct short draws?

but wouldn't you also want to fuse to protect the amp? If an amplifier normally draws ~50 amps and something goes wrong one day and it starts pulling ~90 amps and you have a 300a fuse on the wire to protect the wire, then it's not going to blow. The amp could sit there and be drawing too much current until it smokes and the fuse wouldn't blow.

The only way an amp will draw more than intended is if a transistor shorts. Or somehow the rails short. Other than that an amp can't draw more than the components inside allow unless it's already broken which a fuse won't help anyway

I know there's a lot of "If's" in my question, but if it does break and starts drawing too much then the fuse could blow and cut the power before it catches fire. Again, there's a whole lot of if's in that, but it's just a thought

also wouldn't an amp be drawing more current than usual, if it was clipping hard?

If you are clipping it is breaking the amp. It is drawing more than fets and power supply can handle and will eventually fail. Yes it draws more than

Usual because clipping reduces efficiency. As you approach peak power efficiency decreases and distortion increases. You reach a clip which means you are exceeding rail voltages of the amp. And it's trying to push more when it physically can't.

So would that be a good example of fusing to protect the amp, in order to protect the wire?

[Miguels]

You better go look at some factory wires and stare at the fusible link.

You also aren't fusing just to protect the wire I absolutely hate that statement especially when people are suggesting someone should fuse to their wires current carrying capability when their actual current demand is much less.

I think you are confusing fuses

Seriously though, there is no reason to fuse an alternator. Oem manufacturers fuse any

Wire that could short on battery side only. You are probably looking at another fuse.

If they fused the alternator they would have to fuse at or above alternator rating. I've never seen a 150 a fuse in a car fuse box.

Also the rule is to fuse at or below the current capability of wire. Depends on what you need to run through it. It's mainly for he wire because people who put wires in hat will short one day didn't design or plan it out well. A wire should never short. That's just bad install.

Edit: if a wire does short the fuse protects wire from melting down rest of wire and starting fires along the wire.

The fuse can also limit if you are trying to draw too much through too small of a wire which will cause a dangerous situation

I'm not trying to make this an argument and definitely not my opinion.. Just stating what my stock ford expedition.. From alt to distribution block 4 gauge wire with a 175a ford fuse.from fuse to battery. Again I'm Not going against your post and you or your opinion

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

It's not the clipping that kills the amp not directly anyways it's the extra heat caused by the clipping.

[Bump4life]

I'm not just talking about the main fuse and people around here tell others all the time even their amp runs the fuse is just to protect the wire which is false.

I'm well aware that there is multiple fuses in the vehicle I'm not a moron.

If you're throwing a 300 or 350amp fuse on your 1/0 because that's it's current carrying capability and you aren't actually drawing that much current you're right you aren't protecting anything but if you fused appropriately yes you are.

the amp run's fuse IS to protect the wire though. That is why you put it by the battery and not by the amp.

If you are throwing a 300 amp ANL fuse on a wire but only drawing 50 amps from it with a small system, YES you are STILL PROTECTING THE WIRE, and the car. How many amps do you think a direct short draws?

but wouldn't you also want to fuse to protect the amp? If an amplifier normally draws ~50 amps and something goes wrong one day and it starts pulling ~90 amps and you have a 300a fuse on the wire to protect the wire, then it's not going to blow. The amp could sit there and be drawing too much current until it smokes and the fuse wouldn't blow.

The only way an amp will draw more than intended is if a transistor shorts. Or somehow the rails short. Other than that an amp can't draw more than the components inside allow unless it's already broken which a fuse won't help anyway

I know there's a lot of "If's" in my question, but if it does break and starts drawing too much then the fuse could blow and cut the power before it catches fire. Again, there's a whole lot of if's in that, but it's just a thought

also wouldn't an amp be drawing more current than usual, if it was clipping hard?

If you are clipping it is breaking the amp. It is drawing more than fets and power supply can handle and will eventually fail. Yes it draws more than

Usual because clipping reduces efficiency. As you approach peak power efficiency decreases and distortion increases. You reach a clip which means you are exceeding rail voltages of the amp. And it's trying to push more when it physically can't.

So would that be a good example of fusing to protect the amp, in order to protect the wire?

Clipping generally won't exceed the input wire. And it would have to be on a test tone for an extended period of time. Your sub would die first. It protects the wire. Not your amp. If amps clipping current draw exceeds wire it protects wire. If not there is nothing to protect amp

[Bump4life]

It's not the clipping that kills the amp not directly anyways it's the extra heat caused by the clipping.

Yes you are correct.

[Miguels]

Look at black wire from alternator to fire wall and you will see a distribution block with 2 factory fuses