zoeboi954 Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 so i have had car system for since like 2010 and i never ran a fuse on any of my system cause i felt like wasn't i going to blow anything if i did it right... anyways now i have a much bigger system 4 crescendo bc2000d and will be purchasing 3 more amps 2 crescendo s1500.1f and not sure on the 3rd but most likely crescendo s1100/2. thus this being my biggest system i think i should fuse it. my bc2000d are strapped 2 master and 2 slaves. so my question is on the crescendo manual for the bc2000d it say to give 200 amp fuse or 400 linked. does that mean 400 amp fuse to each bc2000d? another question would it be bad to use circuit breaker instead of a fuse. i dont plain on popping fuse daily but i think it would be better to push a button instead of having to go out a get a fuse. 4 Fi Q 12s In A Prius on 4 Crescendo BC2000D?! That's Absurd (!!!UNDER CONSTRUCTION!!!) go follow http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190658-the-first-prius-with-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumonskateboard6 Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Fuse for the wire you use not the amp you use, check the rating of the wire you use. By not fusing you're not risking blowing an amp as much as you're risking burning down your car. I also took a quick look at your build and you're going to want to fuse after the front battery and fuse before the rear battery. Along with that I'd suggest fuses over circuit breakers, simply because a lot of the circuit breakers out there are cheaply made, cheap fuses > cheap circuit breaker. Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoeboi954 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Fuse for the wire you use not the amp you use, check the rating of the wire you use. By not fusing you're not risking blowing an amp as much as you're risking burning down your car. I also took a quick look at your build and you're going to want to fuse after the front battery and fuse before the rear battery. Along with that I'd suggest fuses over circuit breakers, simply because a lot of the circuit breakers out there are cheaply made, cheap fuses > cheap circuit breaker. i'm sorry but you lost me. i thought your suppose to fuse to the recommendation for the device taking the amperage. i am using a knukoncept 0 gauge wire there is no rating on the wire. and there is no battery in the front of my car only in the back... and also with the second battery the wiring is about 8inch apart from the first battery wouldnt i need one fuse 4 Fi Q 12s In A Prius on 4 Crescendo BC2000D?! That's Absurd (!!!UNDER CONSTRUCTION!!!) go follow http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/190658-the-first-prius-with-4-12s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLYentist Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Fuses, for the most part, are in place to blow when there is a strong short. The fuse is designed to blow before enough heat buildup to potentially start a fire. Fuses for amps help give additional protection from low-voltage/high-current situations. Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 You're dealing with two different things.bumonskateboard guy was right in saying fuse for the wire. The idea is that if the wire is compromised, the fuse blows before the wire catches on fire, and you want as large as a fuse as the wire can handle to get all of the performance out of the wire you paid for. MOST amplifiers have an onboard fuse that protects the amp. So the rule of "fuse for the wire" works MOST of the time. Your crescendo amp does not have an onboard fuse. You need to fuse for the wire near the battery AND fuse for the amp near the amp.Each amp requires a 200 amp fuse. A total of 400 amps of fuse for strapped pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I was going to reply but I'm just going to walk away from this one. These threads make me face palm hard. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 You fuse based on your current demand, let's say your power wire is rated at 350A and your equipment is pulling 150A, would you fuse it at 350A or 150A? Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 You fuse based on your current demand, let's say your power wire is rated at 350A and your equipment is pulling 150A, would you fuse it at 350A or 150A? That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 You fuse based on your current demand, let's say your power wire is rated at 350A and your equipment is pulling 150A, would you fuse it at 350A or 150A? This is what I do, people get into the fuse for this or that argument but I run 1/0 OFC to my mids/highs amps because of reducers (the new thing) but no way I am putting a 300-350 fuse on that wire, why, IDK, I could be very wrong but it's my equipment and I do what I want. 80 amp fuse it is, I can take picture to prove. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Well, if your equipment can pull 150 amps and you fuse at 150, then when the resistance of the wire is factored in you will blow your fuse before seeing the full potential of the equipment.Wire adds resistance too so fusing for the equipment isn't straightforward.Of course if you know your wire is overkill for the equipment, you can fuse closer to the equipments rating.It can be done multiple ways if you know the part each component in the system plays.The general rule of thumb, however, is fuse for the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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