ToNasty Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 48 minutes ago, bcbrassard said: CCF? I figure with the Soundskin on the door and the foam on the panel was above and beyond. It's what i had to work with. And if you can show me how you did it in your build log i would love to see it. Closed sell foam. Its used as a decoupler Usually goes between deadener and mlv. In my case im not using mlv on my doors but i wanted to decouple the door panel Top is deadener. Bottom is ccf over the deadener ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Isn't soundskin top layer CCF? And thank you for the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 7 hours ago, bcbrassard said: Isn't soundskin top layer CCF? And thank you for the pics. Thats kind of what im asking. I have no idea what soundskins even is ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 4 hours ago, ToNasty said: Thats kind of what im asking. I have no idea what soundskins even is SoundSkins is a triple layer product. 1.5mm Butyl rubber, foil, 3mm ccf smooth acoustic foam. What i was putting on the back of the door panel was Dynamats Dynaliner CCF barrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Youre good. Also. Take out your fast rings. Throw them Away and make them out of dynaliner. ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 The 6x9's are ccf. The one Fast Ring i used was the driver door and i added Tesa tape to the outside to help direct the wave. It only marries up from 1/8 to 5/8" gap so i am not going to sweat it too much. Thanks for the info. Not many go to this extreme so if it's not 100% perfect all the time i can forgive myself. I am listening to the system as i work on for about 5 hrs a day, i am super tuned into how the system is performing, and finding area's that need more deadening. Post updates tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 I believe that under the rear deck needs some attention. I hear what i think is reflection of the back wave bouncing high notes off the deck and i don't think it sounds as good as it could. Plus i have just enough material left to do it. To be honest i am itching to get a couple more rolls and just keep deadening. LOL There is a stiff fa-bricked panel that covers the underside of the rear deck. I can only imagine the back wave bouncing off it and hitting the bare under side and sounding tiny or reflective. So it begins... So ya, upside down still suck. At least the spare tire well is comfortable. I spend a lot of time rolling out air bubble's, i want as close to 100% adhesion as possible. And that takes time's poking and rolling it out. I had the results i was hoping for with deadening this area. Deep bass, rich mids & crisp clean highs. I am thinking about putting some Dynamat 1/8" CCF Dynaliner on the backside of this panel for extra added insurance that it sounds good. $45 a roll and a few hours work makes for maximum effort. Going back to work monday will slow this build right down but i will be able to afford all the goodies i need to finish next fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted April 6, 2019 Report Share Posted April 6, 2019 Speakers bouncing off windows like that will have a pingy sound. And 6x9 tend to beam super bad. Deleting rear fill would be best best (in my opinion as i dont run a rear fill in any of my vehicles even stock ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 It will be faded for rear fill. Plus if i get the TWK 88 then i can set a program for front stage SQ only, and have a program for Front/rear sub. It is just how i want this build to be. Not competing in any SQ or SPL contest's. Thank for all your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2019 UPDATES: I have the day off due to getting hit by a snow storm, last week we did 10's and this week started 12 hrs a day. Every year it gets harder to get into shape, good this retirement is only a few yrs away. I'm working on the driver panel and going to get that back on today. I spent a little more time deadening this side. I drilled the grille hole on this panel too. I know what your thinking but they weren't clean holes and it looked as if it could interrupt the wave going out by suffocating the speaker. Just chilling listening to tunes. When i threw this in i just hooked up to the FOCAL crossovers for a quick listen. I never hooked up the T3 direct to the HU. Holy hell was i missing out on the mids & mid-bass. lol They really WOKE up. To funny. Those crossover go with the 3.5" component set and are crossed over high. Plus i think the T3 can play down to 55 or 60 hz. Working on trunk release latch button. Stupid ass location! I started my weekly orders for tools and audio so as they show up i will post pics and any progress.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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