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2012 Malibu system upgrades: wiring & prep.


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2 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

Could you do distribution blocks on the under side of the amp rack panel or do you want them seen in the acrylic window? Just a throught

I do want them the do be seen,  hopefully some room opens up when i get to that stage.  Plus getting to the fuses could be a bitch but do able if need be. Thank you for the suggestion.

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This item i received today will add a nice finishing touch to all the wiring thru out the build.

 

 

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A label maker.  I seen cables labeled on a SQ build, it looked very professional and cleanly done.  And as complex is the system is getting some labels would do me and any service tech in the future great appreciation for having them there.

 

 

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These are cable labels,  be using these a lot.

 

 

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This label  heat shrink tubing is awesome.

 

 

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Black lettering on white heat shrink.

 

 

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3/8",  1/2" &  3/4"  sizes for now.  I need to research and see if i can find black heat shrink with white lettering.  Only the white heat shrink will get used on not so visible of areas for labeling and not aesthetics.  If i find black heat shrink it will add the aesthetics.

 

 

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$13-$15 for each of the stacks. Label maker was $60.  The 2 or 3 pack deals where pretty good imo. 

 

 

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Enough to do this project.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Updates:  Cardboard templates finished and bought a sheet of 5/8" maple plywood for trunk build.

 

 

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This was a pain but after a couple hours of measuring and trimming the trunk baffle template was finished.

 

 

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Layout of templates on plywood, I wasn't able to get the lid of the amp rack out of this sheet.  I will have to get another sheet down the road to for the lid.  Probably 3/4" so i can counter sink the acrylic window to put a false 1/4" panel on top for a stealth look.

 

 

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just working everything out.  I would rather  work thoroughly thru this process than make any mistakes.  And i work slow anyway. 

 

 

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I was able to use the new Band saw today.  It's not good for large pieces but that's were the jig saw comes into play.  It worked really well, no complaints for $140.

 

 

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All pieces cut out.  The one on the floor is the spare tire well for battery & fuse.  The pieces on the right are the trunk baffle.  And the pieces on the left are the bass of the amp rack with the amp riser for LEDS & cooling.  Taken the weekend off and will start sanding pieces for fitment.

 

Finally some Progress! 

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Still working with the wood patterns to finish & paint.

 

 

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Belt & disk sand work good,  i went to Lowe's to get a adapter to hook up the shop vac.  The piece on the stool will have to be a two part piece for battery & fuse rack.  My template was off and i was out of large plywood pieces to remake it.  Always adapter and make it work.

 

 

 

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This is the piece after hours of sanding & using a 45 degree champ fer bit for proper fitment.  Don't need the SMD ground distribution block with battery terminal having 6 positions for grounding.

 

 

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Close to the end result.  I am scratching my head how to get the amp rack in if it has 3" sides to enclose it and put a lid on it.  Sub enclosure has to go in first with trunk baffle next and then the amp rack with very little room to maneuver it.

 

 

 

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I had to re-trim the amp riser for better fitment.  First time process and trying to work issue's out as i go.  With the batter & fuse rack mostly done it will be time to run 2 0 gauge positive leads under the car and into the trunk.

 

 

 

 

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Ends crimped, heat shrink-ed & loom on.

 

 

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Loom is on 18' of the 20'.  i single loomed it for 18" so it matched under the hood.  Then i used 1.25" split loom to keep the two runs together.

 

 

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I will be using these to mount the loom under the car.

 

 

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In and hooked up to fuse block.  I had little room to work and it was a real pain in the butt to weave it in and out so no moving parts touch in and serviceable.

 

 

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Different angle, i need the positive runs done so i can figure out where i am drilling into the trunk.  And then where the positive & negative will come up into the battery and fuse block area.  When i know were that is i can drill holes in the spare well baffle and then it can be painted.  i will continue Monday.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Guys,  small updates are happening.

To start with on a personal note my wife and i separated on Feb 16th after 5 rough years of marriage but are continuing to work thru the issue's even during this horrible time in American history ( yes i know the world is affected, i am a American citizen. And that come first in my book.)  We are still best friends and i have been coming to the house daily to take care of my step son, the house and her needs as she will let me.

We are all happy and healthy on this end but as you can understand this build is not as important and my family's well being and happiness during these struggling times.  The wife gets to work from home so i set her up a office in the living room 2 weeks ago and my son is currently back to doing 7th grade school work which he needs my help.  I am unemployed but i usually am at this time until the construction season starts up in mid April or May. Hard to tell when it will start with this going on.  I am a underground utilities specialist: water, sewer & storm drain systems.  In Alaska it can be 7' deep up to 20' deep where as in the states in can be 2-4' deep in warmer states.   On to the build.....

 

 

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This is the fast ring system before i found a better product so i had to redo the 6.5" speakers in the doors.

 

 

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SoundSkin rings.

 

 

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Solid product IMO.  These can be stacked up if you need that much filler.  Normally your speaker spacer should fill in that distance IMO.

 

 

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I did run some soundskin deadener around the ABS spacer rings for looks but other than that and the new speaker foam door is the same.

 

 

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Nice to have this door panel back on.... it's been off for over a year.  Now to remove passenger side to redo.

 

 

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Old Stinger Fast ring system removed and cleaned up. 

 

 

spacer.png  Deadening around the ABS ring and SoundSkin speaker foam installed.

 

 

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Another look at the door, again nothing else added, just redoing speaker ring system.

 

 

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Here i took a ruler to show how compressible the ring system is so trimming isn't always necessary. Pretty fucking sweet IMO.

 

 

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Purchased on amazon, $25-30 i think but worth every penny.  Now i have to redo the rear deck speakers because i can't help myself.

 

 

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Hear are the specs for the product.  Most fast ring system are not CCF so the do very little in directing the sound. 

 

I hope to redo the rear deck speakers and rerun the power inside the car this week.  I was smoking crack thinking running power outside a low riding car was a good idea.  A truck for sure i would.  Hopefully more pics to follow this week.  A shout out to Peter from PSSound in England. This guy is a super SQ build installer with a ton of info that i have not seen anywhere else.  The equipment he uses is worth more than my car and system together . super insane build's.  The work i have done to these doors for mid-bass will be for nothing in the future.  I will make some serious sealed kick panels with some killer speakers.  Plus rear fill will be some wide band 3-4" speakers in the C-pillar off the DSP to enhance the front stage.

Thanks for checking out the build.

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