ToNasty Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 12.8-14.6. When I didn't have the ground in the sensor I was at 15.2 ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEKAY Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 12.8-14.6. When I didn't have the ground in the sensor I was at 15.2 Cool, all I needed to know. Thanks again for the speedy replies, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 So did you end up keeping the stock ground and adding the alt bracket ground? ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onyx1silverado Posted August 29, 2019 Report Share Posted August 29, 2019 Sorry to bring up an old thread but this is the best info I’ve found on this. If you add a battery, would you still run a power to the front and ground it in the back to frame/body and be ok? Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD Rockford Fosgate T5001 bd-cp 2 DC level 2 12's Focal Access Components in the front Focal Access Coax in the rear doors Rockford Fosgate Punch Boosted Rail 4 channel rms 4x75 XS Power D3400 under the hood Knuconceptz Ultra Fleks Power & Ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEKAY Posted August 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 2 hours ago, onyx1silverado said: Sorry to bring up an old thread but this is the best info I’ve found on this. If you add a battery, would you still run a power to the front and ground it in the back to frame/body and be ok? Ya I had a few batteries in the back with frame grounds back there and it was fine. As for the front I just replaced the stock ground with one run through the sensor. The sensor is big enough to fit one 1/0 run with the headlight ground going through also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b2sdad Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 In my 07 Suburban, I already had the big three done, Mechman Alt. I ran 0 gauge through the current sensor, when I start my truck I get get 15.0 volts for a few seconds then I am assuming the RVC knocks it down to 13.8, with all the various ways and workarounds, I think the best bet for my situation is a secondary alternator dedicated strictly for audio. I just did a battery delete up front and now on straight lithium only. I have been told that Lithium cells like higher than average charge 15+ volts. 2006 Nissan Titan Crew Cab XS Power D6500 up front, Mechman 270 amp alt, Front Stage:Hybrid Audio Legatia Tweeters and Midrange drivers in Custom A Pillars, HA Unity 6x9 inch Midbass in the doors, powered by an Arc Audio 1200.6 X2 and connected to a JL TWK 88 DSP Subwoofers: Four 8 inch Soundqubed Subs in a ported enclosure. Incriminator Audio 20.1 on the subs (@ 1ohm) Performance: JBA Headers, Uprev Tuned, Dynomax bullet muffler, 3 inch exhaust all the way back. Air raid CAI. Wheels: 18 inch Balistic Jester wheels on 33 inch Nitto TG2's Suspension: 6 inches of lift total. DK UCA's, DK LCA's, Icon coilovers up front, Bilstein Shocks in the rear with 4 inch blocks 2007 Chevy Suburban LTZ Engine: 5.3 DOD Delete, BTR Stage 4 truck Cam, TSP Headers, Gibson Catback exhaust. Tuned by Sam @ Advanced Modern Performance. Suspension: 2/4 Belkin drop. Belkin Sway bars, Spohn Panhard bar Audio: Pioneer 8400 NEX Head unit, Audio Dynamics DSP, 6th order enclosure with three 10 inch DC Audio Level 4s behind the third row. Wolfram 4500 on Subs, Wolfram AW 250.4 on the front stage Dual SkyHigh Car Audio 8 inch mid bass in the doors, quad 3.5 inch midrange drivers in the A-Pillars Dual Alternators, Mechman 320 powering a CES 40ah Lithium battery, OEM alt has an AGM on it.Viper remote start. Wheels: 24 inch Luxx wheels/ 305/40 R24 Grammatically speaking, Prolly is not a word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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