dayo808 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Cool cool thanks skip. I was thinking so due to the short runs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 You might want to watch out for aluminum corroding...or maybe that is copper... hmm. Maybe someone smart will help you out here. I can't seem to remember now. Also, you might want to watch out for using copper and aluminum together. And by together I mean where the metals will touch, I seem to remember for some reason it can cause issues. Could possibly be way wrong about this though. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayo808 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Skippy you are absolutely correct about dissimilar metals corroding each other being more likely. And there is more of a chance of corrosion being a problem with copper clad aluminum. The colossus fleks 0 I already have in my truck is marine grade tinned O.F.C but I live in southern TX and conditions are harsh here the reason I am thinking cca is premature jacket failure and general deterioration and a cheaper replacement more often. If that makes any sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLYentist Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 those batteries will work well. I say replace the underhood battery first because the starter gets most of its juice from there, and the alternator charging travels through there as well as the vehicle electronics. Simply it's placement closer to those items makes it the main source. Well that isn't quite how it works. Batteries connected in parallel act as one. The charge doesn't flow through the front battery to the back battery. Other than the time delay because of cable lengths, the charge gets to each battery at the same time. I would still replace which ever battery is weakest first, then the other battery if you can only do one at a time. Think of subwoofers in parallel, if you wire a shorter wire to one, does the amps output flow through that sub first? You're right, but resistance is such a huge factor in DC circuits as compared to AC circuits. The fact that the front battery is closer to the starter, most of the power still comes from that battery to turn the starter over. The electrons (theoretically, not literally) are travelling from the battery at the speed of light, and the EMF (electro-motive force) that is closest to the starter motor will supply most of those electrons as compared to an EMF that is bridged by an arbitrary 1ohm. If the batteries were connected in parallel, and had the exact same resistance between them and the starter motor throughout, then yes, the draw would come from each battery equally. Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 ^^ now that I can agree with. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayo808 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Dang sly lol mad scientist more like I have got a few questions maybe you could answer with that well thought out reply u may be able to dumb it down enough for me to figure out better. Due to my current power limitations I have been seriously considering what to do to get the most out of what I can power. New more efficient amps and 2 lower wattage subs or 1 higher. How many real rms watts should I be able to run with a 120 amp alt and a 75 Amp hour battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 No more than 1000w rms @ 1ohm (excluding all other factors such as efficiency, impedance rise, music vs. tones, etc.) is probably the limit for that supply of power. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayo808 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 So I'm sitting with about 900 rated rms watts as of right now 200 total from my 4 Chan ab class at 4 ohms and 700 from a mono class d at 2 ohms. But not the greatest equipment. R.e. audio dts series amps. Not sure how is best to plan out my system from here as I feel I have failed with this setup. Advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 A 120 amp alt is not so weak for a stock car. You can have fun with it. 1000 w rms easily, for sure. A serious AGM battery under the hood, and another AGM batt (Group 31) in the rear should help running more power IMO. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayo808 Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I think the biggest I can put under hood is a group 65 . And I only have about 7"tall and 6" deep by 36 wide space to put batteries in my Amp rack now the question is would the benefit of efficiency be worth upgrading my amps or no? And also the maker of my alt (Mitsubishi) rates it at 120 but ford rates it at 105 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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